南京云锦色晕口诀的色彩数字化研究  

Digital study on the colors in the color halo formulas of Nanjing Yunjin brocade

作　　者：王淑君 鲁佳亮[1] 刘广社 徐铮[2,4] WANG Shujun;LU Jialiang;LIU Guangshe;XU Zheng(College of Textile Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk),Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;World Silk and Silk Road International Research Center,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Jiangsu Huaxia Nanjing Brocade Weaving Co.,Ltd.,Huai’an 223464,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310002,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学国际丝绸与丝绸之路研究中心,杭州310018 [3]江苏华夏云锦织造有限公司,江苏淮安223464 [4]中国丝绸博物馆,杭州310002

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第5期19-25,共7页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：南京云锦色晕口诀是云锦色彩的核心内容,有着极高的艺术文化和色彩研究价值。然而,云锦色晕口诀多已失传,配色运用存在很大局限性。文章结合史料、文献、云锦作品,对色晕口诀进行整理和色彩数字化提取,并将其置于HSB色彩模型定量分析,尝试对云锦色晕的配色特征分析。结果表明:云锦色晕的配色多以红、紫、白为主色调;色晕配色的色相差基本在110°以下,大多集中在50°以下,为同色系或邻近色系配色;色晕配色喜用中高明度、饱和度的色彩,搭配低明度、饱和度色彩中和。云锦色晕主观性的配色口诀与西方数字化色彩理论存在类似,遵循着各自的配色逻辑,运用色彩对比与调和,来形成良好的配色效果。从云锦中提取的色晕口诀和色彩可为后续云锦色晕色彩数字化的相关研究提供参考与借鉴。Nanjing Yunjin brocade is a famous silk handicraft which enjoys a good reputation at home and abroad.It was particularly prosperous in the Yuan,Ming and Qing Dynasties.It is named for its elegant and beautiful patterns,gorgeous and solemn color decoration,just like the gorgeous clouds in the sky.As for Nanjing Yunjin brocade,an intangible cultural heritage,the color is its most prominent feature,and the core content of the Nanjing Yunjin brocade color is its color halo formulas,which have a high value for artistic culture and color research.However,most of the color halo formulas have been lost.The color halo formulas of traditional Nanjing Yunjin brocade in color matching have the characteristics of experience dependence,subjectivity and personalization,which leads to the lack of scientific and standardized data research.Therefore,there are still great limitations in the use of color management and color matching,which makes it difficult to inherit skills and spread knowledge.In this paper,the color research of the color halo formulas of Nanjing Yunjin brocade is taken as the starting point to explore a more perfect and rich color of Nanjing Yunjin brocade,restore the colorful appearance of Nanjing Yunjin brocade,and combine it with modern technology to apply it in the field of contemporary color,so as to achieve the inheritance and development of Nanjing Yunjin brocade and its color.Based on historical data,literature and Nanjing Yunjin brocade works,we divided the color halo formulas into two-color ones and three-color ones,sorted out the color halo formulas and digitally extracted the colors,and put them into HSB color model for quantitative analysis,trying to analyze the color matching characteristics of Nanjing Yunjin brocade color halo.Besides,we applied Nanjing Yunjin brocade color halo formulas into modern patterns.The digital research on the colors of Nanjing Yunjin brocade color halo formulas,which is proposed in this paper,enriches the basic research data and improves the flexibility and operability o

关 键 词：南京云锦 色晕口诀 配色特征 HSB色彩模型 色彩数字化 配色应用 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]