南京云锦图案生态审美特性研究  

Study on the ecological aesthetic characteristics of patterns on Nanjing Yunjin brocade

作　　者：孙仕荣 SUN Shirong(Academy of Fine Arts,Jiangsu Second Normal University,Nanjing 210013,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏第二师范学院美术学院,南京210013

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第5期127-134,共8页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：为拓宽南京云锦图案的研究视野,本文从生态美学的研究视角梳理和分析其审美特性,分别对其素材、纹样、口诀、色彩所蕴含的生态美学特征加以分析论证。研究表明,南京云锦图案在素材体系上饱含积极的生态审美整体性特征,在纹样形态上不乏鲜活的生态交融性特征,在纹样口诀上积淀着深厚的“生生律性”特征,在色彩运用上具有鲜明的生态审美自然性特征。以上四方面特性是“活态”传承云锦文化遗产的创新点所在,这一研究成果表明,对云锦图案生态审美元素的研究、保护、传承、应用推广是生态经济时代发展云锦工艺的有益尝试。Most of the previous studies have analyzed Nanjing Yunjin brocade pattern art from the perspective of craft aesthetics.It can be said that fruitful results have been achieved.However,the limitations of this art are inevitable on the horizon of information technology and ecological civilization.Research is conducted from the perspective of ecological aesthetics.It is of important value for broadening the research scope of Nanjing Yunjin brocade cultural heritage and changing the traditional anthropocentric aesthetic research paradigm.With reference to the relevant theories of ecological aesthetics,craft aesthetics,and folk art,the author studied the ecological aesthetics characteristics embodied in the materials,patterns,pithy formulas,and colors of Nanjing Yunjin brocade patterns through reasoning analysis,essence analysis,and systematic analysis.The following conclusions are drawn:(i)the Nanjing Yunjin brocade pattern is full of positive integral ecological aesthetics in the material system and its integrity is reflected in the ecological hierarchy and ecological diversity,thus forming the auspicious culture system of the Yunjin brocade material.(ii)The Nanjing Yunjin brocade pattern boasts a vivid ecological blending feature in terms of pattern shape,which is reflected in the morphological diversity of unit flowers,the ecological regularity of the pattern combination,and the comprehensive model expression.(iii)The Nanjing Yunjin brocade pattern enjoys a profound feature of“rules of aesthetics of fecundity of life”in the pithy formulas for pattern design.In the pattern design and weaving practice,the“rules”are of important enlightenment significance for mankind to seek the“technical prototype”with the original breath of life.(iv)The Nanjing Yunjin brocade pattern enjoys distinctive aesthetic and natural characteristics in terms of color name,color material,“active”color matching,and colors’implication.The above four characteristics are the innovative points of the“living”inheritance of Yunj

关 键 词：南京云锦图案 生态整体性 生态交融性 生生律性 自然性 推广路径 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]