旅游世界的美食意象及旅游者的美食具身体验——基于表征和非表征的双重视角  

The Food Image of the Tourism World and the Embodied Experience of Tourists:Based Dual Perspectives of Representational and Non-representational Theory

作　　者：朱宇轩 谢彦君[1,2] 王一雯 ZHU Yuxuan;XIE Yanjun;WANG Yiwen(School of Tourism,Hainan University,Haikou 570228,China;Tourist Experience Research&Design Center of Hainan University,Haikou 570228,China)

机构地区：[1]海南大学旅游学院,海南海口570228 [2]海南大学旅游体验研究与设计中心,海南海口570228

出　　处：《旅游学刊》2023年第4期115-132,共18页Tourism Tribune

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目“旅游场中的仪式:地方性视角下的西藏民族文化旅游体验研究”(41771165);“海南自由贸易港国际旅游消费中心建设路径”(72041027);海南大学人文社科科研创新团队资助项目(HDSKTD202016)共同资助。

摘　　要：旅游者的美食体验与其他旅游体验类型相比显然具有更强的具身性。同时,旅游者在美食体验方面所体现出来的文化体验转向也表明,它也是旅游者借以探索旅游地传统人文特质的一把符号性的钥匙。旅游者美食体验的这种具身性和符号化特点,显示出针对旅游者美食体验的研究不仅可以从表征视角下的符号意义入手,也可以从非表征视角下的情境与具身观点出发予以展开。基于此,文章选取在旅游者眼中独具美食体验魅力的新疆为案例地,综合表征与非表征两个理论视角,利用访谈和网络游记得来的文本材料,采用扎根理论的编码方法进行分析,并得出以下结论:旅游者的美食体验认知一般会经历一个结构-解构-再结构的过程。在首个结构化过程中,旅游者借助于目的地美食景观的话语表征,构建其对目的地的美食符号意象。在其后的解构化过程中,旅游者通过其具身性美食体验行为,借助向目的地美食背后所存在的广泛的社会文化关系进行“索引式”的探求,将先期产生的符号化意象不断地消解在具体的旅游场景当中,使旅游者的美食体验不断突破单一的、刻板化的美食景观意象,凸显了旅游者美食具身体验的解构性,完成了其美食体验的具身性延展。在最后的再结构化过程中,尽管旅游者美食体验的刻板意象会消解于具身体验当中,但不可避免地,具身体验的结果将重新成为影响旅游者未来美食体验的结构化认知基础。由此可见,旅游者的美食体验是一个心理场和物理场之间动态化平衡过程。Compared with other types of tourism experience,tourists’food experience is obviously more embodiment.At the same time,the“cultural experience turn”reflected by tourists in food experience also shows that it is also a symbolic key for tourists to explore the traditional humanistic characteristics of the tourist destination.The“embodied”and“symbolic”characteristics of tourists’food experience show that the research on tourists food experience can be carried out not only from the symbolic meaning from the perspective of representational theory,but also from the situated and embodied point of view from the perspective of non-representational theory.Based on this,this paper selects Xinjiang province,which has the unique charm of food experience in the eyes of tourists,as a case,integrates the two theoretical perspectives of representational and non-representational theory,adopts the text materials obtained from interviews and online travel notes,uses the coding method of grounded theory to analyze,and comes to the following conclusion:tourists’food experience cognition generally experiences a process of“structure-deconstruction-structure”.In the first structural process,tourists construct their food symbol image of the destination with the help of the discourse representation of the food spectacle of the destination.In the subsequent deconstruction process,tourists through their personal food experience behavior,with the help of continuous exploration to the extensive social and cultural relations behind the destination food,and constantly eliminate the symbolic images generated in the early stage in the specific tourism scene,so as to make the tourists’food experience break through the single and the stereotyped food spectacle image,highlights the deconstruction of tourists’food embodied experience and completes the embodied extension of their food experience.In the final process of restructuring,although the stereotyped image of tourists’food experience will be dissolved in the embodied

关 键 词：旅游体验 美食体验 美食迷思 表征 非表征 具身体验 

分 类 号：F59[经济管理—旅游管理]