雪尼尔纱形态结构的调控机理及其纺制工艺设计  

Morphological structureregulation mechanism of the chenille yarn and its spinning process design

作　　者：林维 薛元 金淑兰 罗军 柳群豪 LIN Wei;XUE Yuan;JIN Shulan;LUO Jun;LIU Qunhao(School of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Jinhua Jieling Housewares Co.,Ltd.,Jinhua 321037,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]金华洁灵家居用品有限公司,浙江金华321037

出　　处：《现代纺织技术》2023年第3期36-44,共9页Advanced Textile Technology

基　　金：金华市级技术创新项目(金经信投资[2021]47号)。

摘　　要：雪尼尔纱的形态结构参数包括雪尼尔纱的线密度,饰纱的排列密度,雪尼尔纱的直径和雪尼尔纱的捻度等。为了探讨雪尼尔纱形态结构的调控机理,以前罗拉的线速度,饰纱的卷绕速度和隔距片的宽度作为设计参数,研究了基于雪尼尔纺纱机改变雪尼尔纱饰纱排列密度和饰纱宽度,实现调控雪尼尔纱形态结构的纺纱工艺,设计并纺制了不同规格的雪尼尔纱。结果表明:通过改变前罗拉线速度和饰纱卷绕速度,可以在纺制同一根雪尼尔纱时连续变化饰纱的排列密度,呈现出不同的形态结构。其中,改变前罗拉线速度时,同一雪尼尔纱中饰纱的排列密度倍率最高可达3.3倍;改变饰纱卷绕速度时,同一雪尼尔纱中饰纱的排列密度倍率可达到4倍;通过改变隔距片宽度,可以纺制不同直径宽度的雪尼尔纱。本文研究了雪尼尔纱形态结构参数的调控机理,实现拓宽雪尼尔纱的纺制工艺从而提高雪尼尔产品的市场竞争力。The chenille yarn is widely used in textiles,decorative fabrics and so on.It is popular among consumers for its unique style and comfort.But currently the products of chenille yarns in our country are mainly conventional varieties,and as the market competition increases,the industry profit decreases sharply.Meanwhile,the textile industry is in a critical period of structural adjustment and transformation and upgrading.Chenille yarn products need to be innovated in order to improve their market competitiveness.Compared with the progress of chenille spinning machinery,its spinning process has received less attention.However,the improvement cost is relatively low,so the processing technology should be improved in order to control the innovation cost and enrich the product types.By analyzing the forming mechanism ofchenille yarns,the parameters of its shape structure mainly include the linear density,the arrangement density,the diameter and the twist.In the actual production process,the linear density of chenille yarns is mainly determined by the arrangement density of the yarns.Therefore,the study focuses on the change of chenille yarn arrangement density and width of the yarns.The former is realized by adjusting the linear speed of the front roller or the rotational speed of the rotary head,while the latter depends on the width of the spacer.Based on the control of the process parameters of the above three chenille spinning machines,the spinning process of regulating the morphology and structure of chenille yarns was realized,and chenille yarns of different specifications was designed and spun.The results show that by changing the speed of the front roller and the winding speed of the yarn,the arrangement density of the yarn can be changed continuously when the same chenille yarn is spun,showing different morphological structures.When the speed of the front roller is changed,the density ratio of the yarns in the same chenille yarn can be up to 3.3 times.When the winding speed is changed,the arrangement density rati

关 键 词：雪尼尔纱 形态结构参数 线密度 饰纱排列密度 调控机理 工艺设计 

分 类 号：TS154.7[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]