明清弓鞋服饰民俗与女性身份建构——以明清俗曲民歌为中心  

Costume Folklore of Bow Shoes in the Ming and the Qing Dynasties and the Construction of Female Identity:Centering on Folk Songs in the Same Periods

作　　者：沈媛媛 SHEN Yuanyuan

机构地区：[1]山东大学艺术学院,山东济南250100

出　　处：《民俗研究》2023年第3期79-86,159,共9页Folklore Studies

摘　　要：基于明清女性缠足这一身体经验形成的服饰弓鞋,催生了诸多与其相关的俗曲民歌。明清礼制规范与男性文人赋予缠足以及弓鞋的社会地位,使得弓鞋成为女性阶层身份建构的标识。明清女性运用身体感知、性别经验将自我身份与社会语境的互动感投射到服饰民俗中,这主要体现在明清都会女性的时尚消费、乡村女性的习俗礼仪,以及在城市与乡村的涉身性场域流动引发的女性身份焦虑之中。就此而言,弓鞋成为明清女性身份建构的重要符码。Women's foot-binding experience in the Ming and the Qing Dynasties brought about the costume of bow shoes,and also gave birth to many folk songs describing bow shoes in the Ming and the Qing Dynasties.The social status of foot-binding and bow shoes given by ritual norms in the Ming and the Qing Dynasties and male literati,made bow shoes the symbol of the construction of female's class identity.Women in those periods used body perception and gender experience to project the sense of interaction between self-identity and social context into the folklore of dress,which was mainly reflected in the fashion consumption of metropolitan women,the etiquette and customs of rural women,and the female identity anxiety caused by the flow of the involved sex field between city and countryside.In this regard,bow shoes became an important symbol of the construction of female identity in the Ming and the Qing Dynasties.

关 键 词：明清俗曲 弓鞋 女性身份 

分 类 号：K248[历史地理—历史学] I207.7[历史地理—中国史] K892.23[文学—中国文学]