棉/生物基弹性聚酯纤维混纺针织物的服用性能  

Wearability of knitted fabrics produced from cotton/bio-based elastic polyester fiber

作　　者：苏旭中 梁巧敏 王汇锋 张娣 崔益怀 SU Xuzhong;LIANG Qiaomin;WANG Huifeng;ZHANG Di;CUI Yihuai(College of Textile and Apparel,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China;BV Shenyou Quality and Technical Service Jiangsu Co.,Ltd.,Jiangyin,Jiangsu 214400,China;Wuxi Jinmao Foreign Trade Co.,Ltd.,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China;Nantong Shuanghong Textile Co.,Ltd.,Nantong,Jiangsu 226661,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]必维申优质量技术服务江苏有限公司,江苏江阴214400 [3]无锡市金茂对外贸易有限公司,江苏无锡214122 [4]南通双弘纺织有限公司,江苏南通226661

出　　处：《纺织学报》2023年第5期119-124,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心协同创新基金项目(XJFZ/2021/17);江苏省自然科学基金青年基金项目(BK20170169);国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309200)。

摘　　要：针对生物基弹性聚酯(PTT)纤维因自身特性难以单独成条纺纱的问题,设计在清花工序运用3种不同形态棉纤维辅助PTT纤维成卷成条,并采用赛络纺方式制成线密度为14.7 tex的棉/PTT纤维(60/40)混纺纱,然后织成纬平针织物比较分析其顶破性、起毛起球性、耐磨性、透气性、透湿性及悬垂性能,最后用模糊综合评判模型对织物性能进行综合评判。结果表明:棉纤维的伸直程度高,可加大与PTT纤维间的摩擦力,提高了混纺针织物的顶破性、抗起毛起球性、透气性;织物表面PTT纤维含量多,则耐磨性较佳;而透湿性与悬垂性能与棉纤维形态基本无关。基于模糊评价模型判定,选用精梳棉条辅助PTT纤维成卷的混纺针织物的综合服用性能较佳。Objective Bio-based elastic polyester(PTT)fiber is the only biomass elastic staple fiber that can be commercially produced at present in line with the promotion of environmental protection.PTT fiber has a good development prospect,but is unable to spin yarns from pure PTT fibers at this stage.This paper reports a new spinning scheme for producing cotton/PTT fiber blended yarns and reports on the analysis and comparison of the properties of knitted fabrics from this blended yarn.Method Three different forms of cotton fibers were adopted to assist PTT fibers in the blowing process to form cotton rolls and slivers.Cotton/PTT fiber(60/40)blended yarn with a linear density of 14.7 tex was produced by siro spinning,which was used for producing a weft knitted fabric.The properties of bursting,pilling,abrasion resistance,air permeability,moisture permeability and drape of the fabric were measured and analyzed.Then the fabric properties were comprehensively evaluated by using fuzzy evaluation method.The forms of cotton fibers blended with the PTT fiber were carded sliver,carded net and combed sliver respectively,and the corresponding yarns were named as a,b and c.Results The longitudinal shape of the PTT fiber is similar to the curl of a spring(Fig.1).The performance parameters of the selected fiber materials were shown that the linear density of cotton fiber was smaller and the average length was shorter than that of the PTT fiber,but the breaking strength and moisture regain are larger(Tab.1).Elongation at break of PTT fiber was high.According to the performance test results of three sets of 14.7 tex cotton/PTT fiber(60/40)blended siro yarns,blended yarns with combed sliver assisted with PTT showed smaller evenness coefficient,less hairiness,and larger breaking strength and elongation(Tab.2).The basic parameters of the Rnitted fabric can be seen that the course and wale densities showed little difference from the uniform set value(Tab.3).By comparing the test data of the Rnitted fabrics,it was concluded that fabric C ha

关 键 词：生物基弹性聚酯纤维 棉纤维 混纺纱 针织物 服用性能 赛络纺 

分 类 号：TS102.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]