棉/形状记忆氨纶纬编免烫衬衫面料制备及其性能评价  

Preparation and performance evaluation of weft knitted ironing-free shirt fabric based on cotton/shape memory spandex

作　　者：王雅倩 万爱兰 曾登 WANG Yaqian;WAN Ailan;ZENG Deng(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China;Lianyungang LDZ New Ao Shen Spandex Co.,Ltd.,Lianyungang,Jiangsu 222069,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122 [2]连云港杜钟新奥神氨纶有限公司,江苏连云港222069

出　　处：《纺织学报》2023年第5期125-131,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(11972172)。

摘　　要：为改善纬编衬衫面料的折皱回复性能,利用温敏型形状记忆氨纶与棉纱设计了平纹、单珠地、双珠地3款面料,并对面料进行3种不同预定形温度处理。分别对形状记忆氨纶的转变温度、形状记忆性进行表征,同时对面料的折皱回复性、形状记忆性、弹性回复性、缩水性进行评价。结果表明,当环境温度达到32.45℃及以上时,即人体体温就可触发形状记忆氨纶的形状记忆功能;形状记忆氨纶的使用可改善纬编衬衫面料的折皱回复角与弹性回复率,当形状记忆氨纶含量为8.4%时,折皱回复角与弹性回复率可分别提高20.5%、14.35%。Objective Although the existing cotton shirt fabrics offer good comfort and breathability,it is difficult to meet the dimensional stability requirements for shirt end-use.It is often necessary to finish the cotton shirt fabrics for shape retention without the need of ironing.Such finishing technique often uses chemical reagents for treatment,which will not only affect the comfort and softness of cotton shirt fabrics,but also remain some chemical substances in the fabric.This paper aims to improve the wrinkle recovery performance of weft knitted cotton shirt fabrics by incorporating shape memory spandes fibers.Method In order to improve the wrinkle recovery performance of weft knitted cotton shirt fabrics,plain,single bead and double bead fabrics were knitted by using a cotton yarn incorporating temperature-sensitive shape memory spandex.Three different predetermined temperature treatments were carried out on the fabrics.The transition temperature and shape memory performance of shape memory spandex yarn were characterized,and the wrinkle recovery,shape memory performance,elastic recovery performance and shrinkage performance of the fabrics were evaluated.Results The results showed that when the temperature reached 32.45℃and above,the shape memory function of shape memory spandex could be triggered by the body temperature.The deformation fixation rate of shape memory spandex was 93.5%,and the shape recovery rate was 91.0%,indicating good shape memory performance of the spandex fiber and the effectiveness of the shape memory spandex in improving wrinkle recovery angle and elastic recovery rate of weft knitted shirt fabric.When the content of shape memory spandex was 8.4%,the wrinkle recovery angle and elastic recovery rate were increased by 20.5%and 14.35%,respectively.The properties of fabrics with different pre-determined temperatures were also found different,and the fabrics at pre-determined temperature of 195℃demonstrated the best dimensional stability.Conclusion The human body temperature is used as the t

关 键 词：形状记忆氨纶 棉纱 纬编衬衫面料 温敏 转变温度 折皱回复 弹性回复 

分 类 号：TS182.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]