鞋面面料耐磨色牢度测试方法优化与影响因素分析  

Test method optimization and influence factors analysis ofabrasion colorfastness of shoe upper materials

作　　者：倪梦桐 马颜雪 李毓陵[1,2] 杜卫平 Ni Mengtong;Ma Yanxue;Li Yuling;Du Weiping(College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai/China;Key Laboratory of Textile Science&Technology,Ministry of Education,Shanghai/China;Shanghai Textile(Group)Corporation,Shanghai/China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织学院,中国 [2]东华大学纺织面料技术教育部重点实验室,中国 [3]上海纺织(控股)集团公司,中国

出　　处：《国际纺织导报》2022年第12期34-38,共5页Melliand China

摘　　要：以EN ISO 17704标准为基础,通过调整摩擦圈数对鞋面面料耐磨色牢度测试方法进行了优化。采用数码喷墨、转移印花和气流喷射3种不同的印染方式对试验材料进行染色处理,分别制备了4种不同颜色的鞋面面料,使用优化后的方法测试各试样的耐磨色牢度。结果表明:优化后的测试方法具有一定的可操作性。印染方式、颜色及摩擦圈数在试验条件下对鞋面面料耐磨色牢度均有不同程度的影响。单因素方差分析结果显示:干摩擦圈数为16 000、湿摩擦圈数为8 500时,偶然误差较小,测试结果相对稳定,可信度较高,适用于实际生产中的鞋面面料耐摩擦色牢度测试。Based on the EN ISO 17704 standard,an optimization was carried out on the testing method for colorfastness to abrasion of shoe upper materials by adjusting the number of friction cycles.Three different dyeing processes were adopted,namely digital inkjet,transfer printing,and air-jet spraying,to color the test materials.Four types of shoe upper materials of different colors were prepared.The optimized method was used to test the colorfastness to abrasion of each sample.The results show that the optimized testing method has a certain operability.The printing and dyeing method,color,and number of friction cycles all had varying degrees of impact on the colorfastness to abrasion of shoe upper materials under test conditions.Single-factor variance analysis results show that when the number of dry friction cycles is 16000 and the number of wet friction cycles is 8500,the random error is relatively small,the test results are relatively stable,the reliability is high,and it is suitable for the testing of colorfastness to abrasion of shoe upper materials in actual production.

关 键 词：耐磨色牢度 鞋面面料 数码喷墨 转移印花 气流喷射 色牢度评定 

分 类 号：TS190.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]