中空保暖纤维在三线衬垫织物中的应用及其性能研究  

Study on the application and properties of hollow polyester fibers in three-yarn fleecy fabrics

作　　者：赵金洋 顾学峰 赵连英[1,3] ZHAO Jinyang;GU Xuefeng;ZHAO Lianying(College of Textile Science and Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Ningbo Myfitt Textile TechCo.,Ltd.,Ningbo 315700,China;Xiangshan Knitting Research Institute,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Ningbo 315711,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院,杭州310018 [2]宁波马菲羊纺织科技有限公司,宁波315700 [3]浙江理工大学象山针织研究院,宁波315711

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第6期25-32,共8页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：为了研究中空涤纶在衬垫织物中应用的可能性并开发新型保暖衬垫织物,文章采用线密度为16.7 tex中空涤纶丝和18.4 tex中空自发热纱作为三线添纱衬垫织物的起绒纱,并与普通涤纶做起绒纱时做对比,在单面大圆机上制定工艺制备了6种风格不同的针织衬垫织物。通过对织物基本规格、顶破强力、抗起毛起球性、透湿性、保暖性和掉毛性能进行测试分析,择优选出性能最好的织物进行后续开发。结果表明:中空涤纶的应用使织物比普通织物具有更加优越的服用性能,其中起绒纱为18.4 tex中空自发热纱的织物具有最好的保暖率,综合性能最优;起绒纱采用16.7 tex中空丝的织物也表现出优越的保暖性和其他性能,且当面纱采用14.6 tex纯棉纱织造时,面料手感风格更加柔和细腻;通过该研究为新型保暖衬垫织物的开发提供依据和参考。With the diversified development of differentiated fibers,hollow fibers that can carry more air are one of the most commonly used materials in thermal insulation.The hollow structure of hollow fibers can reduce the weight of fibers by 20%compared with ordinary fibers,and can contain a large amount of static air,forming a unique heat preservation system.It also makes the fiber aggregate more bulky,making the fabric lightweight and thermal insulation performance 65%higher than ordinary homogeneous fabrics.Hollow polyester is a differential fiber obtained from the modification of traditional polyester.At present,the hollowness can reach 50%in theory,but the hollowness will reduce the strength of the fiber and affect the wearability of the whole fabric.And the middle cavity structure will make the fabric have excellent moisture absorption function and improve the moisture absorption and permeability of the fabric.Therefore,hollow polyester fabrics generally have excellent properties such as warmth retention,light weight,bulkiness and good moisture absorption,which provides people with good functional textiles,and a wide application prospect.Furthermore,the cross-development prospect with other disciplines is also more worthy of expectation.At present,the fleece sweater fabric accounts for a large market share among the most common warm clothes.Because of the softness,lightweight,warmth retention,washability,easiness to maintain,fashionability and other characteristics,the fleece sweater fabric is beloved by modern young people.The fleece sweater fabric refers to the product that is knitted,and then processed by post-finishing processes such as drawing,carding,shearing,shaping and functional finishing.It is woven by three-yarn plaited fleecy stitch,and is composed of veil,ground yarn and fleecy yarn.The fleecy yarn,sandwiched between the veil and ground yarn,forms a hanging arc on some needles according to certain rules,and is on the reverse side of the fabric in the form of“floating line”in the place where the ha

关 键 词：三线添纱衬垫织物 中空涤纶 织造工艺 保暖性能 透湿性能 织物掉毛 织物手感风格 

分 类 号：TS102.528.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]