江南水乡妇女作裙“裥上绣”技艺和艺术特征研究  

Technique and artistic characteristics of zuoqun’s pleat embroidery madeby Jiangnan water town women

作　　者：陈研 傅菊芬[1] 张竞琼 CHEN Yan;FU Jufeng;ZHANG Jingqiong(Applied Technology College,Soochow University,Suzhou 215325,China;School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州大学应用技术学院,江苏苏州215325 [2]江南大学设计学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第6期82-91,共10页Journal of Silk

基　　金：江苏省高校哲学社会科学研究一般项目(2021SJA2373);“纺织之光”中国纺织工业联合会高等教育教学改革研究项目(2021BKJGLX364,2021BKJGL365)。

摘　　要：作裙“裥上绣”技艺是江南水乡妇女在长期的“稻作文化”中智慧的结晶,具有很高的艺术和研究价值。近年来因水乡地区工业化进程的加快,这种极具地域特色的技艺正面临失传的危险。文章以江南大学民间服饰传习馆馆藏的作裙实物为研究对象,通过文献资料研究法、田野实地调研法、图文记录与分析法等研究方法,追溯了水乡作裙与中原传统裙装在结构形制上的“源流”关系,“裥上绣”与“民间绣”“民间绣与苏绣”“苏绣与中国刺绣”之间的“从属”关系;记录了水乡服饰工艺传人示范的作裙“裥上绣”技艺的基础工艺针法、特殊装饰技法及程式工艺流程;解析了作裙“裥上绣”技艺“简单独特,互动共生”工艺技术美、“以图适形,主宾有序”纹样造型布局美、“尚蓝好白,冷调排他”用色含蓄美等艺术特征。The zuoqun’s pleat embroidery technology is the crystallization of women in Jiangnan(south of the Yangtze River)water towns in the long term rice culture,so it has high artistic and research value.In recent years,the special regional technology is in danger of being lost with the acceleration of industrialization of Jiangnan water towns.With focus on zuoqun collected in Folk Garments Biography Museum of Jangnan University,we traced the historical development of zuoqun’s structural form and pleat embroidery technology,recorded the basic needlework,special decoration technique and unified process flow of zuoqun’s pleat embroidery demonstrated by the inheritors of the traditional garment technology in Jiangnan,and analyzed the artistic features of zuoqun’s pleat embroidery technology in the aspects of craft technology,pattern layout and color expression through the literature research method,field research method,graphic record,analysis method and other research methods.Three conclusions are drawn.First,on the one hand,there is a“source and tributary”relationship between zuoqun in Jiangnan water towns and the traditional skirt of the Central Plains.They not only have commonalities in terms of patterns and wearing ways,but have their own uniqueness and regionalism.On the other hand,there is a subordinate relation between zuoqun’s pleat embroidery and the folk embroidery,between the folk embroidery and Suzhou embroidery,and between Suzhou embroidery and Chinese embroidery.Specifically,zuoqun’s pleat embroidery belongs to the folk embroidery,and is the most typical in clothing;the folk embroidery belongs to Suzhou embroidery,and is an important branch of the technology system;Suzhou embroidery and embroidery in the Central Plains belong to Chinese embroidery and together they take part in the historical development of Chinese embroidery.Second,in practice,Ji-stitch and Qiao-stitch are usually used for zuoqun’s pleat embroidery in water towns,with zuoqun’s pleat surface mainly having two types of thr

关 键 词：江南水乡 妇女 作裙 裥上绣 艺术特征 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]