17-19世纪法国丝织业发展概况及因素  

Development situation and factors of French silk weaving industry in the 17 th-19 th centuries

作　　者：鲁佳亮[1,2] 赵丰[1,2] 苏淼[2,3] LU Jialiang;ZHAO Feng;SU Miao(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;College of Textile Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk),Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Shengzhou InnovationResearch Institute,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Shaoxing 312400,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州310018 [3]浙江理工大学嵊州创新研究院,浙江绍兴312400

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第6期124-131,共8页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：17-19世纪法国是欧洲丝织提花技术发展的核心,本文通过对这段时期的研究,有助于了解西方丝织技术发展。首先阅读参考了众多英文、法文文献,经过系统梳理,将法国丝织业发展分为原始积累、扶持发展、繁荣创新、荣衰起伏4个主要时期;然后剖析法国丝织业兴衰成败,发现政府行政干涉、行业协会体制、生产模式变化及人才培养机制等有着深刻影响。France was the core of the development of silk jacquard technology in the world around the 17 th-19 th centuries.It is expected to provide enlightenment for the development of China silk industry.The study of this period is helpful to understand the development of Western silk weaving technology.After reading and referring to many documents in English and French,we drew two important conclusions.First,the development of French silk industry experienced the following four periods in chronological order:primitive accumulation,supporting development,prosperity and innovation,and decline.The primitive accumulation was slow and long.Following mulberry planting and sericulture,silk trade appeared,and then silk weaving production serving the upper class began.With the support of the government,the silk industry experienced a period of development and rise in the 17 th century.It began to develop rapidly around the 18 th century and there was a process of large-scale innovation,industrial support,technological reform and policy promotion.As a result,the whole industry flourished until it reached its peak in the 19 th century.In the turbulent political environment after the 19 th century,the accidental superposition of natural and man-made disasters caused great damage to the industry,and it failed get a good respite and recovery.Although there were a series of stimulus policies after Napoleon Bonaparte came to power,the overall industry continued to decline until the outbreak of World War I in the early 20 th century,which completely pushed the French silk industry to the brink of collapse.Second,throughout the development process,the French government’s strong administrative implementation under the“mercantilism”ideology,strict industry association regulations,technological revolutions,production mode transitions,emphasis on talent cultivation,protection of intellectual property rights,and other factors provided momentum for the development of the French silk industry.Under the mercantilism promoted by the French

关 键 词：法国丝织 行业协会 技术革新 重商主义 学徒制 生产模式 

分 类 号：F416.81(565)[经济管理—产业经济] K876.9[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]