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作 者:萧自智 XIAO Zi-zhi(Juwenlee Cosmetics Technology Center,LUO LIH-FEN Group,Zhangzhou,Fujian 363107,China)
机构地区:[1]罗丽芬集团嘉文丽化妆品技术中心,福建漳州363107
出 处:《日用化学品科学》2023年第6期7-12,共6页Detergent & Cosmetics
基 金:福建省科技项目(2021-11010055)。
摘 要:对水仙鳞茎提取物的纯度及多糖组成进行分析,并研究其保湿、抗过敏和抗炎功效。采用低温浸提法联合絮凝法提取水仙鳞茎多糖;采用紫外分光光度法、凝胶色谱法、高效液相色谱法及红外光谱法分析水仙鳞茎多糖杂质残留、分子量及组成;人体实验分析皮肤保湿含量和经皮失水,细胞学实验评价组胺及一氧化氮活性。结果表明,水仙鳞茎多糖不含淀粉、蛋白质、秋水仙碱、石蒜碱等,均数分子量为559 kDa,由甘露糖、葡萄糖组成;涂抹水仙鳞茎多糖组的皮肤,水分保湿含量为37.50%,而空白组为28.72%(p<0.01),经皮失水为9.13 g/(h·m^(2)),对比空白组为12.19 g/(h·m^(2))(p<0.001);水仙鳞茎多糖均不具细胞毒性,能减少细胞组胺的释放及一氧化氮的生成量。The purity and composition of Narcissus tazetta bulb extract were analyzed,and the efficacies related to cosmetics were studied.The Narcissus tazetta bulb polysaccharide(NTBP)was extracted by low-temperature extraction method combined with alcohol flocculation method;the residual impurities,molecular weight and composition of NTBP were analyzed by UV spectrophotometry,gel chromatography,high performance liquid chromatography and infrared spectroscopy;the skin moisture content and transepidermal water loss(TEWL)were analyzed by human experiment;cytological test was used to evaluate histamine and nitric oxide activity.The results show that no starch,protein,colchicine,or lycorine is found in NTBP;the average molecular weight of NTBP is 559 kDa,and NTBP is composed of mannose and glucose,with n(mannose):n(glucose)of 4∶1;the NTBP can increase the skin moisture content(the skin moisture content is 37.50%as compared with 28.72%in the blank group(p<0.01));the TEWL is 9.13 g/(h·m^(2))for the skin applied with NTBP,compared with 12.19 g/(h·m^(2))in the blank group(p<0.001);the NTBP is non-cytotoxic,and can reduce the release of histamine and the production of nitric oxide.
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