可控深水破碎波的实验室生成方法研究  

Research on laboratory generation method of controllable deep water breaking waves

作　　者：薛庆仁 梁书秀[1] 许媛媛 孙昭晨[1] Xue Qingren;Liang Shuxiu;Xu Yuanyuan;Sun Zhaochen(State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Dalian University of Technology,Dalian 116024,China)

机构地区：[1]大连理工大学海岸与近海工程国家重点实验室,辽宁大连116024

出　　处：《海洋学报》2023年第4期46-56,共11页

基　　金：国家自然科学基金(51779038);国家重点研发计划—辽东湾污染防治与生态环境修复关键技术研究(2019YFC1407700)。

摘　　要：实验室一般采用波浪聚焦方法生成深水破碎波,通过各组分波浪的波幅叠加生成一个波高显著增大的大波,使其波陡超过极限波陡发生破碎。利用该方法生成深水破碎波浪的破碎次数通常并不唯一,导致波浪破碎后的流场特征不明显;造波参数不易于选取导致研究工况的设置难度大,直接影响深水破碎精细化实验的效果和效率。本文采用聚焦波理论计算波面,并利用上跨零点法定义的波高和波长计算理论波陡,结合物理模型实验统计波浪沿程破碎次数与剧烈程度,研究以JONSWAP谱为造波输入谱型时,聚焦波幅、谱峰频率、频宽等造波输入参数对于波浪破碎情况的影响,从而建立深水波浪破碎次数与造波输入参数之间的近似定量关系,为实验造波参数的选取提供参考,提高实验效率。Deep water breaking wave is usually generated by the wave focusing method in laboratory.A wave with a significantly increased height can be generated by the superposition of components so that wave breaks when the steepness exceeds the limit value.However,using this method,the number of wave breaking is usually not unique leading to less obvious field characteristics after breaking and it’s hard to set research cases due to the difficulty in selecting wave-making parameters.As a result,the effect and efficiency of elaborate deep water wave breaking experiments is affected directly.Theoretical wave surface was calculated by the theory of wave focusing method and theoretical wave steepness was calculated using the wave height and wavelength defined by up-cross-zero method in this paper.On the other hand,wave breaking times and intensity were obtained from the physical experiments.The JONSWAP spectrum was used as the input spectrum and the effects of wave-making parameters,such as focusing amplitude,spectrum peak frequency,frequency bandwidth,on wave breaking were discussed so as to establish an approximate quantitative relationship between breaking times and input parameters.The research conclusions can provide a reference for selection of wave-making parameters so that the efficiency of the experiment can be improved.

关 键 词：波浪聚焦方法 JONSWAP谱 深水波浪破碎 破碎次数 

分 类 号：P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学] TV139.25[水利工程—水力学及河流动力学]