涤纶/雅赛尔纤维交织面料的仿天丝染整工艺  

Wet processing of Tencel-like mixture fabric with polyester and Yasser fiber

作　　者：方颂 张金龙 徐伟明 陈洋 占敏华 FANG Song;ZHANG Jinlong;XU Weiming;CHEN Yang;ZHAN Minhua(Shaoxing Haicheng Chemical Co.,Ltd.,Shaoxing 312000,China;Hangzhou Hangmin Damei Printing and Dyeing Co.,Ltd.,Hangzhou 311221,China;Hangzhou Xinsheng Printing and Dyeing Co.,Ltd.,Hangzhou 311221,China)

机构地区：[1]绍兴海成化工有限公司,浙江绍兴312000 [2]杭州航民达美染整有限公司,浙江杭州311221 [3]杭州新生印染有限公司,浙江杭州311221

出　　处：《印染》2023年第6期42-45,54,共5页China Dyeing and Finishing

摘　　要：新型仿天丝面料采用经向2.22 tex(20 D)涤纶单孔丝与纬向58.31 tex紧密赛络纺雅赛尔纤维进行交织,赋予织物绒感、灰霜仿旧和柔顺细腻的特征。根据面料特点和风格要求,采用冷堆、平幅水洗、预定形、开纤、染色、定形、砂洗、空气拍打和拉幅定形工艺,重点讨论了开纤和砂洗工艺参数对面料品质的影响。在溢流缸中进行开纤,开纤剂QX质量浓度为4 g/L,110℃保温80 min;砂洗采用2 g/L纯碱进行膨化处理,上柔环节采用3 g/L柔软剂TX和0.5 g/L滑爽织物整理剂HC-740。处理后的织物具有天丝面料的砂洗风格,同时满足纬纱接缝滑移在6 mm以内,经向撕破强力在12 N以上的指标要求。A new type of Tencel-like fabric is developed with 2.22 tex(20 D)single-hole polyester as warp yarn and 58.31 tex compact Sirospun Yasser fiber as weft yarn.The fabric features fleecy handle,frost distressed appearance,soft and smooth feeling.According to the characteristics and style of the fabric,wet processing is carried out,including cold batching,open width washing,presetting,fiber peeling,dyeing,heat setting,sand washing,air slapping and stentering.The key procedures of peeling and sand washing on fab⁃ric quality are discussed.Peeling at 110℃for 80 min in the overflow machine with peeling agent QX 4 g/L,sand washing with 2 g/L soda ash and softening with 3 g/L softener TX and 0.5 g/L smoothing agent HC-740.The treated fabric has the sanded washing style of Tencel-like fabric,and the properties can meet the basic in⁃dex requirements of the weft seam slippage within 6 mm and the warp tearing strength of more than 12 N.

关 键 词：染整加工 开纤 砂洗 灰霜仿旧感 仿天丝面料 雅赛尔纤维 交织面料 

分 类 号：TS190.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]