麻衬衫生产工艺研究  

Study on Production Technology of Hemp Shirt

作　　者：宋海燕 解滢瑞 李凤霞 杨晓飞 SONG Haiyan;XIE Yingrui;LI Fengxia;YANG Xiaofei(Luthai Textile Co.,Ltd.,Zibo 255100,China)

机构地区：[1]鲁泰纺织股份有限公司,山东淄博255100

出　　处：《纺织器材》2023年第3期53-56,共4页Textile Accessories

摘　　要：为了解决麻衬衫生产过程中存在纬斜、尺寸不稳定、易滑脱、水洗手感差等质量较难控制问题,分别从衬衫裁剪、粘衬工艺,辅料选择,缝制、整烫及水洗工艺等方面研究问题存在的原因并提出解决措施。指出:麻面料宜采用手工拉布,采用较薄的粘合衬、低温平压,可防止因衬布缩率大而造成的尺寸偏差问题;软衬、活衬适合麻面料,粘合后不改变麻面料本质风格且强力较高;缝制时需从线迹密度、缝纫机针、缝线张力调节、左右门襟等方面控制加工质量;应采用合理的熨烫温度,整烫前须对麻面料加湿,设立专人平领子、门襟和底边工序等;采用合理的水洗工艺,避免麻衬衫的刺痒感、粗糙感和粗硬感,使麻织物具备柔软、平滑、干爽的手感,且能改善织物弹性和抗皱性能。In order to solve the problems in hemp shirt production,such as weft skew,size instability,easy slipping off,poor washing feel and difficult in quality control,the causes of the problems are studied from the aspects of cutting,lining,auxiliary materials,sewing,finishing-ironing and washing technology,and the solutions are put forward.It is pointed out that we should adopt manual pulling cloth,and use thinner adhesive lining and low temperature flat pressing,which can prevent the size deviation caused by large shrinkage of lining for hemp fabric.Soft lining and live lining are suitable for hemp fabric,which can not change the essence of hemp fabric style and high strength after bonding;the quality of sewing should be controlled from stitch density,sewing needle,suture tension adjustment,left and right front flap,etc.Reasonable ironing temperature should be adopted.Hemp fabric should be humidified before ironing.Special personnel should be set up to flatten collar,front flap and bottom edge.Reasonable washing process is adopted to avoid the itching,rough and rough feeling of hemp shirt,so that the hemp fabric has soft,smooth and dry feeling,and can improve the elasticity and wrinkle resistance of the fabric.

关 键 词：麻衬衫 纬斜 滑脱 裁剪 粘衬 辅料 缝制 整烫 水洗 

分 类 号：TS121.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]