基于衣身构成的嵌入式蝴蝶结皱褶结构研究  

Research on Embedded Bowknot Structure Based on the Clothes Body

作　　者：许勃[1] XU Bo(School of Fashion Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《北京服装学院学报（自然科学版）》2023年第2期58-63,共6页Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology：Natural Science Edition

摘　　要：基于衣身构成的嵌入式蝴蝶结皱褶的结构设计难度较大。为使其设计更为便捷,从结构制图、造型实验、数据分析等角度展开蝴蝶结皱褶的结构研究。将蝴蝶结皱褶的基础纸样延伸出8个款式不同蝶翼宽、抽褶长度的变化型纸样,对不同款式的蝴蝶结造型进行主观评价。数据显示:蝴蝶皱褶造型的美观性与蝶翼宽和抽褶长度的匹配度,即蝴蝶结纸样的长宽比有相关性。这一研究结果为蝴蝶结的结构设计、尺寸设定提供依据。The structure of the embedded bowknot based on the clothes bodyis difficult to design.To make the process easier,this paper studied bowknot design from the perspectives of pattern drawing,modelling practice and data analysis.Based on the basic bowknot pattern,this paper added eight patterns with different lengths and widths as well as the subjective evaluation of all the bowknots,and carried out subjective evaluation on these patterns.Combining with the test data,it shows that the beauty of bowknot lies in the match degree of wing width with pleats length,also known as width-length ratio of bowknot.This conclusion provides a basis and direction for bowknot pattern design.

关 键 词：蝴蝶结 皱褶结构 服装纸样 抽褶造型 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]