牛仔经纱免退浆工艺探究与应用  

Investigation and application of no desizing processof denim warp yarn

作　　者：张海焕 张苗 刘柳 张瑞云[1] 盖丽轩 张海峰 童胜昊 章小华 ZHANG Haihuan;ZHANG Miao;LIU Liu;ZHANG Ruiyun;GAI Lixuan;ZHANG Haifeng;TONG Shenghao;ZHANG Xiaohua(College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;Innovation Center for Textile Science and Technology,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;China Cotton Textile Industry Association,Beijing 100020,China;Hefei Runli Textile New Materials Co.,Ltd.,Hefei 231500,China;Zhejiang Jinsuo Textile Co.,Ltd.,Jinhua 321104,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620 [2]东华大学纺织科技创新中心,上海201620 [3]中国棉纺织行业协会,北京100020 [4]合肥润力纺织新材料有限公司,安徽合肥231500 [5]浙江金梭纺织有限公司,浙江金华321104

出　　处：《齐鲁工业大学学报》2023年第3期45-52,共8页Journal of Qilu University of Technology

基　　金：上海市科学技术委员会科技创新行动计划“一带一路”国际合作项目(21130750100)。

摘　　要：为探讨牛仔经纱免退浆工艺的可行性及最佳工艺条件,选择了M-5A、M-5两种环保浆料进行复配,研究其配比及调浆温度对浆液水溶性、黏度及黏附力的影响;进一步探究两种环保浆料配比及上浆温度、上浆压力、上浆速度等上浆工艺对浆纱上浆率、拉伸性能、毛羽指数、耐磨性能以及浆纱表面形态的影响,最终得到适宜的浆料配方及上浆工艺;将其应用于牛仔面料的实际生产中,对比并分析免退浆织物与传统上浆织物的透气性能、力学性能、弯曲性能、抗皱性能、色牢度等指标。结果表明:使用这两种浆料对纱线进行上浆,可以实现低上浆率上浆和低温上浆;使用免退浆工艺上浆得到的浆纱性能相较于原纱有了很大的提升,并且优于企业的传统上浆浆纱性能;得出最佳免退浆上浆工艺为上浆温度55℃、上浆压力3 kN、上浆速度25 m/min,浆料配方M-5A及M-5质量比为7∶3;使用免退浆工艺上浆得到的织物性能可以达到传统上浆织物的性能,且具有更优异的抗皱性和柔软性。This article discusses the feasibility and optimal technology conditions of denim warp yarn no desizing process.Two environmentally friendly sizing agents M-5A and M-5,were selected for compounding to study the effects of their ratio and sizing temperature on the water solubility,viscosity,and adhesion of the slurry.Furthermore,the effects of the sizing process,including the proportion of the two environmentally friendly sizing agents,sizing temperature,sizing pressure,and sizing speed,on the sizing rate,tensile properties,hairiness index,wear resistance,and surface morphology of the sized yarn were studied.An appropriate sizing agent formula and sizing process were ultimately obtained and applied in the production of denim fabric.The permeability performance,mechanical performance,bending performance,anti-wrinkle performance,and color fastness of the no desizing sized fabric were compared with those of traditionally sized fabric.The results showed that using these two sizing agents for sizing the yarn can achieve low sizing rate sizing and low-temperature sizing.The performance of the sized yarn obtained by using no desizing sizing technology was greatly improved compared to the original yarn and was superior to the traditional sizing of the enterprise.The optimal no desizing sizing process was found to be a sizing temperature of 55℃,sizing pressure of 3 kN,and sizing speed of 25 m/min,and the sizing agent formula was m(M-5A)∶m(M-5)=7∶3.The results also showed that the no desizing sized fabric had comparable performance to traditionally sized fabric after returning the sizing,and had better anti-wrinkle and softness than traditionally sized fabric.

关 键 词：免退浆工艺 低温上浆 环保浆料 浆纱 牛仔面料 

分 类 号：TS115.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]