非遗视角下白裤瑶黏膏树脂染工艺的调查研究  

Investigation and research on the Niangao resin dyeing technology of Bai Ku Yao from the perspective of intangible cultural heritage

作　　者：刘红晓[1] LIU Hongxiao(College of Humanities,Art and Design,Guangxi University of Science and Technology,Liuzhou 545006,China)

机构地区：[1]广西科技大学人文艺术与设计学院,广西柳州545006

出　　处：《染整技术》2023年第6期55-59,共5页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

基　　金：2018年度国家社会科学基金立项项目——瑶族服饰文化在旅游文创产品中创造性转化的路径研究(18BMZ138);2018年广西高校中青年教师基础能力提升项目——广西少数民族服饰元数据标准与应用研究(2018KY0311)。

摘　　要：黏膏树脂染是白裤瑶最具特色的传统工艺,笔者两次深入广西壮族自治区河池市南丹县实地调查白裤瑶黏膏树脂染技艺,对其工艺流程及工艺过程中使用到的各种材料和工具进行了详尽阐述,并对白裤瑶民族服饰传承人和瑶族原生态蓝靛蜡染坊坊主进行了访谈调查,从非遗保护和传承的视角讨论白裤瑶黏膏树脂染的现状、发展和变化。Niangao resin dyeing is the most distinctive traditional process of Bai Ku Yao.The author traveled to Nandan County,Hechi City,Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region twice to investigate the Niangao resin dyeing technology of Bai Ku Yao,elaborate on its process flow and various materials and tools used in the process.The inheritor of the Bai Ku Yao ethnic costume and the owner of the original Yao eco-blue indigo wax dyeing workshop were interviewed.Then the present situation,development and changes of Bai Ku Yao Niangao resin dyeing are discussed from the perspective of intangible cultural heritage protection and inheritance.

关 键 词：白裤瑶 黏膏树脂染 非物质文化遗产 

分 类 号：TS193.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]