基于CLO3D仿真技术的唐代女子胡服复原及创新设计  

Restoration and Innovative Design of Hufu for Tang Dynasty Women Based on CLO3D Simulation Technology

作　　者：郑思锐 张妍[1] ZHENG Sirui;ZHANG Yan(International Academy of Arts,Dalian University of Foreign Languages,Dalian 116044 China)

机构地区：[1]大连外国语大学国际艺术学院,大连116044

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2023年第3期87-94,共8页Fashion Guide

基　　金：大连市社科院(研究中心)课题(2022dlsky130);大连市社科联2022年第二批课题重点项目(2022dlskzd326)。

摘　　要：为了实现唐代女子胡服-翻领袍在创新设计领域的数字化改革,更全面的探究唐代女子翻领袍服装形制,进一步推广CLO3D数字化虚拟技术在传统服饰中的创新设计应用。本文以正仓院“圆领袍”为切入点对房陵长公主墓中着翻领袍侍女的服饰进行复原,提出一种基于数字化技术将唐代房陵长公主墓壁画中侍女所着翻领袍复原的办法。首先利用文献分析法复原出日本正仓院“大歌袍”服饰形制,并应用于CLO3D软件进行三维复原,通过分析比较推理出房陵长公主墓中着翻领袍侍女的服饰形制,应用于CLO3D软件进行复原。其次通过SPSS数据分析软件对问卷数据进行剖析得出创新设计依据。将设计点侧重于翻领袍的肩部和领襟处,通过压力测试确保着装舒适性,完成最终虚拟展示。研究结果表明:依据正仓院“大哥袍”结构数据可以复原出唐代女子翻领袍形制,圆领袍与翻领袍的款式都是“十字型”结构,只是在领襟的穿着方法上有所不同。调查问卷与SPSS26.0和Amos17.0数据分析相结合的方式可以为再创新设计提供更丰富、科学的设计预览方案且分析后的调查问卷数据Cronbach'sα和CR均大于0.7,AVE大于0.5,由此设定的理论模型的是科学合理。CLO3D数字化复原能够复原出古代服饰形制面貌,是一种行之有效的传承翻领袍服饰的方法。软件中3D显示界面与2D绘制版片页面联动的功能使服装版型调整更便捷。文章旨在促进唐代翻领袍服饰的研究保护和传播,探讨唐代翻领袍在现代服装应用中的发展机遇。This essay aims to achieve a 3D digital restoration and the innovative design of the Hu fu(clothes of other nationalities)of a woman with a lapel during the Tang Dynasty.The term"Hufu",as the name implies,refers to the clothing of the"the Northern barbarian tribes in ancient China",which is a generic term used to refer to the northern minority and foreign ethnic groups that are distinct from the Han Chinese,and is not limited to a particular ethnic group.During the Tang dynasty,influenced by the Silk Road and the concept of the'Huayi family'promoted by Emperor Gaozong of Tang,the Hufu’s style was prevalent.The archaeological findings so far have divided the lapel robe of the Tang Dynasty into three categories:1.narrow-sleeved robe with lapels,two pieces of lapels facing each other in front of the chest,the colour of the lapels is different from the base colour of the garment,when wearing the two pieces of lapels can be opposite and open,the collar is"V"collar.2.narrow-sleeved robe with a round collar,cuffs and two pieces of lapels meet and dispose of with edge,the colour is different from the base colour of the garment.3.3.left overlapping single lapel robe,both sides of the lapel in front of the chest are"overlapping"type,the part of the lapel folded out and clothing base colour is different,usually embroidered with scrolling grass pattern,grape pattern and other patterns with other patterns for decoration.This article focuses on the stylistic characteristics of Tang dynasty women wearing lapel robes from the perspective of Tang dynasty women's clothing.Any style of dress was influenced by social factors,and the development and prevalence of Buddhism during the Tang Dynasty,which promoted the'equality of all beings,greatly enhanced the social status of women during the Tang Dynasty.The women of the Tang dynasty wore Hufu,which epitomized the trend for women to wear men's clothing during the Tang dynasty and was also a reflection of the Buddhist philosophy in women's clothing.Ethnic costume heritage is an impor

关 键 词：唐代 女子 胡服 CLO3D 复原 创新设计 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]