中山装到人民装的款式演变--以裁剪技术文献为样本(1912—1959年)  

The style evolution from the Zhongshan suit to the Renmin suit:Taking the cloth-cuttingtechnical literature as a sample(1912-1959)

作　　者：郭明昊 张倩 刘卫[1] GUO Minghao;ZHANG Qian;LIU Wei(School of Fashion,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第7期143-149,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：北京服装学院研究生科研创新项目(120301990131);北京社会科学基金一般项目(19YTB013)。

摘　　要：中山装与人民装是近现代中国最具时代风范的服装,但是关于两者的款式界定、历史渊源在学术界还没有得到统一的认识,仍缺乏具体考证研究。本文梳理1912—1959年的裁剪技术文献,以中山装及人民装款式图示和文字描述为主要依据,结合同期历史文献,探析中山装与人民装的款式渊源。研究发现:民国中山装款式有三期样式,从制服化转向民用化;中华人民共和国成立初期中山装演变成为人民装,款式向大众化演变,并呈现“一板多款”,体现人民装的“人民性”的内涵。The Zhongshan suit and the Renmin suit are the most emblematical garments in modern China,but the style definition and historical origin of the two have not yet been unified in academic circles,and there is still a lack of specific analysis and research.During the Republic of China and the early period of the People’s Republic of China,technical documents guiding the people in garment cutting emerged and recorded the popular garment styles and corresponding paper patterns at that time.The survival of these materials is of great value to the study of the Zhongshan suit and the Renmin suit.In this study,we sorted out the literature on cloth-cutting techniques from the time of the Republic of China to the early years of the People’s Republic of China through literature study and comparison analysis,and explored the style evolution of the Zhongshan suit and the Renmin suit combining the historical literature of the same period and using the style illustrations and textual descriptions of the Zhongshan suit and the Renmin suit in the literature as the main basis.Two important conclusions were finally drawn.The Zhongshan suit in the time of the Republic of China went through three periods of style changes,and the common elements of the Zhongshan suit in each period were:single-row lapels,stand-up lapels,and four-pocket style;the three periods of style changes were mainly reflected in the number of buttons,pocket shapes,and the back structure of the Zhongshan suit.The Zhongshan suit evolved to structural simplification and localization,and developed from uniform style to daily dressing style.Second,after comparing literature from different periods,it is confirmed that the Zhongshan suit evolved into the Renmin suit at the early stage of the People’s Republic of China.The Renmin suit was a style developed by combining the style elements of the Lenin suit and school uniform with the base shape of the Zhongshan suit.This led to the formation of two major style systems:the Zhongshan-style Renmin suit and the comprehen

关 键 词：中山装 人民装 列宁装 学生装 裁剪文献 款式演变 人民性 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]