羊绒纤维与肤皮点的活性染料同色性染色  

Homochromatic dyeing process of cashmere fiber and skin spot with reactive dyes

作　　者：阴晓冬 王化东 达来 席世海 张淼 徐成书 欧阳磊 YIN Xiaodong;WANG Huadong;DA Lai;XI Shihai;ZHANG Miao;XU Chengshu;OUYANG Lei(School of Textile Science and Engineering,Xi'an Polytechnic University,State Key Laboratory of Intelligent Textile Materials and Products,Xi'an 710048,China;Ningxia Xin'ao Cashmere Co.,Ltd.,Lingwu 751400,China)

机构地区：[1]西安工程大学纺织科学与工程学院,西安工程大学智能纺织材料与制品国家重点实验室,陕西西安710048 [2]宁夏新澳羊绒有限公司,宁夏灵武751400

出　　处：《印染》2023年第7期31-34,38,共5页China Dyeing and Finishing

基　　金：宁夏回族自治区重点研发计划项目(2022BFH02005);西安工程大学2022年大学生创新创业训练计划项目(S202210709132)。

摘　　要：针对山羊绒染制浅色时存在纤维颜色浅、肤皮点颜色深的同色性差问题,对团队前期研发的助剂XTR-2进行性能改进。采用与染料亲和力较高的特种助剂组分SN与XTR-2复配制备了助剂XTR-3,并将其用于山羊绒纤维的活性染料染色,优化了山羊绒纤维活性染料染色同色性的工艺参数。结果表明:采用助剂XTR-3对山羊绒进行活性染料染色,可避免染色起始阶段酸的应用,弱化纤维与肤皮点因吸酸量的差异而造成对染料吸附量的差异,明显改善染色同色性及匀染性,同色性比传统工艺提高2~3级。In view of the problems of poor color homogeneity of cashmere fiber and skin spots with reactive dyes in light shade,the performance of the additive XTR-2 developed by the team in the previous research is improved.The additive XTR-3 is prepared by compounding with SN and XTR-2 which have high affinity with dyes,and is used for dyeing cashmere fiber with reactive dyes.The influence of process parameters on dyeing effect is explored,and the process parameters are optimized to improve the color homogeneity of cashmere fiber with reactive dyes.The results show that when cashmere is dyed with additive XTR-3,the application of acid in the initial stage of dyeing can be eliminated,the difference in the adsorption amount of dye between the fiber and the skin spots caused by the difference in the amount of acid absorption is weakened.Therefore,the homochromatic effect and levelness of dyed fiber and skin spots is significantly improved,and the homochromaticity can be increased by 2-3 level than that with traditional process.

关 键 词：山羊绒纤维 肤皮点 同色性 毛用活性染料 

分 类 号：TS193.632[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]