台湾地区赛夏南群人与客家人互动下的服饰变迁  

The changes in clothing under the interaction between southern Saisiyat group and Hakka in Taiwan region

作　　者：赖文蕾 李斌 陈东生[3] LAI Wenlei;LI Bin;CHEN Dongsheng(School of Fashion Design,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion,Nanchang 330301,China;School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;The Research Centre for Chinese Clothing Culture,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion,Nanchang 330301,China)

机构地区：[1]江西服装学院服装设计学院,江西南昌330301 [2]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430073 [3]江西服装学院中华服饰文化研究中心,江西南昌330301

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2023年第3期46-50,66,共6页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金(18YJA760001,21YJA760032);武汉纺织大学研究生创新基金(20220331)。

摘　　要：中国台湾赛夏南群人与台湾地区客家人紧密相邻,两者互动交流下形成服饰的交融与变迁。为了探究两者服饰变化及其原因,理解两者核心文化内涵,采用田野调查法、图像分析法与文献资料法厘清两者服饰的特征,并分析两者服饰变迁的原因。研究表明:赛夏南群人服饰与客家人服饰各有其特色,这与生活环境、宗教文化等因素有着极大的关系;两者毗邻促进两者间互动交流,其中包括通婚、收养行为,相似的风俗习惯以及经济往来等导致了语言互通、服饰相融等现象。在服饰上的具体表现则是赛夏南群人服饰的“客家化”现象,即赛夏南群人对客家人服饰的直接穿用,以及部分客家人服饰元素运用于赛夏南群人服饰上。The southern Saisiyat group is close to the Hakka people in Taiwan region,and the interaction and exchange of ethnic groups form the blending and transformation of the costumes of the two ethnic groups.In order to explore the changes of the costumes of the two ethnic groups and their causes,and understand the core cultural connotation of the two ethnic groups,the characteristics of the costumes of the two ethnic groups were clarified by means of field research,image analysis and literature review,and the reasons for the changes of the costumes of the two ethnic groups were analyzed.The results show that the clothing of the southern Saisiyat group and the Hakka clothing have their own ethnic characteristics,which are greatly related to factors such as living environment,religious culture,etc.Adjacency between two ethnic groups promotes interaction and communication between them,including intermarriage,adoption behavior,similar customs and economic exchanges,which lead to language exchange,clothing integration,and other phenomena.The specific expression in clothing is the "Hakka style" phenomenon of the southern Saisiyat group clothing,which refers to the direct wearing of Hakka clothing by the southern Saisiyat group,as well as the application of some Hakka clothing elements to the southern Saisiyat group clothing.

关 键 词：台湾地区赛夏南群 台湾地区客家人 服饰变迁 交流互动 文化交流 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]