长江口南汇潮滩的波浪特征及其影响因素  

Wave characteristics and their influencing factors on Nanhui tidal flats in the Changjiang Estuary

作　　者：崔明慧 涂俊彪[1] 孟令鹏 郭兴杰 苏妮[1] 范代读[1] CUI Minghui;TU Junbiao;MENG Lingpeng;GUO Xingjie;SU Ni;FAN Daidu(State Key Laboratory of Marine Geology,Tongji University,Shanghai 200092,China;Shanghai Institute of Geological Survey,Shanghai 200072,China)

机构地区：[1]同济大学海洋地质国家重点实验室,上海200092 [2]上海市地质调查研究院,上海200072

出　　处：《海洋学研究》2023年第2期28-44,共17页Journal of Marine Sciences

基　　金：上海市教委科研创新计划自然科学重大项目(2021E00093);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(ZD-21-202101)。

摘　　要：波浪是塑造开敞型潮滩动力地貌的重要因素,但目前对潮滩波浪特征研究仍较少。该文以长江口南汇潮滩为例,通过对固定平台声学多普勒流速仪(Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter,ADV)获得的流速和水压等高频数据进行反演,获得了波浪特征参数和波浪谱参数,进而分析了它们在潮周期内的变化规律和影响机制。研究表明,观测期间南汇潮滩3个站位波浪的常浪向和强浪向以SE向为主,由长周期涌浪占主导。3个站位的有效波高与水深均成正相关关系,但各站位在涨、落潮期间的拟合系数不同。波浪轨道流速受浅水效应和潮流流向的影响明显,如在涨潮初期达到最大,在转流时期出现谷值。落潮期间波浪频谱以双峰谱为主,明显受到潮汐水位和地形的综合影响,期间峰值能量不断衰减且逐渐分散,并伴随出现了峰频转移现象。Wave is an important factor to shape the dynamic geomorphology of the open tidal flat,but researches on tidal-flat wave characteristics are still limited.Taking Nanhui tidal flats in the Changjiang Estuary as an example,the wave characteristic parameters and wave spectrum parameters were obtained by inverting flow-velocity and water-pressure data from the Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters(ADVs)at some fixed platforms,and their changes over tidal cycles and associated influence mechanisms were discussed.The results show that both normal wave direction and prominent wave direction at three stations of Nanhui tidal flats are mainly southeast during the observation period,with long-period swells dominating.The effective wave height of the three stations is positively correlated with the water depth,but the fitting coefficients of each station are different over flood and ebb periods.Wave orbital velocities are obviously modulated by the shallow water effect and the flow directions,and their maximum values usually occur at the early flooding stage,while minimum values can be observed to occur during the current transition periods.The wave energy spectrum during ebb tides is featured by the bimodal pattern because of high influence by tidal levels and coastal topography,and the peak energy is continuously attenuated and gradually dispersed with the concurrent shift of peak frequencies.

关 键 词：南汇潮滩 波浪特征参数 波浪谱 风浪 涌浪 

分 类 号：P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学]