中草药活性成分在化妆品中的应用  

Application of Chinese herbal medicine active ingredients in cosmetics

作　　者：张婉萍 林梅 王恒 岳恒 郑时莲 ZHANG Wanping;LIN Mei;WANG Heng;YUE Heng;ZHENG Shilian(School of Perfume and Aroma Technology,Shanghai Institute of Technology,Shanghai 201418,China;The Oriental Beauty Valley Research Institute,Shanghai 201403,China)

机构地区：[1]上海应用技术大学香料香精技术与工程学院,上海201418 [2]上海东方美谷产业研究院,上海201403

出　　处：《精细化工》2023年第7期1428-1437,共10页Fine Chemicals

基　　金：上海应用技术大学引进人才科研启动基金项目(10120K226113-A06)YJ2022-19。

摘　　要：中草药是中国传统的纯天然药物,具有来源极广、药物残留少、毒副作用微小和无抗药性等优点。中药材中的一些活性成分具有抗炎、抗氧化、抗菌等功效,被广泛应用于日常保健和临床医疗中。近几年来,越来越多的高安全性、温和、低刺激性的中草药活性成分作为天然添加剂应用在化妆品中。同时,含中草药的化妆品在全球市场上的需求量正在不断增加,这为中草药及其活性成分在化妆品中的应用研究提供了思路和动力。首先,总结了中草药中6种常见活性成分,如酚类化合物、类黄酮、皂苷、萜类化合物、类胡萝卜素和天然多糖的结构和功能;接着,综述了中草药活性成分的5大功效:保湿、祛斑美白、防晒、抗皱与祛痘及作用机制;最后,提出了中草药功效性成分在化妆品应用中存在的问题,并指出了未来发展方向。Chinese herbal medicine is a traditional natural medicine with wide sources,less drug residues,small toxic and side effects,no drug resistance and other excellent characteristics.Some active ingredients in Chinese herbal medicine display effects of anti-inflammatory,antioxidant,antimicrobial and so on,which is widely used in daily health care and clinical medical treatment.In recent years,more and more Chinese herbal active ingredients with high-safety,mild and low irritation are used in cosmetics as natural additives.At the same time,the demand for cosmetics containing Chinese herbal ingredients in the global market is increasing,which provides ideas and impetus for the research on the application of Chinese herbal medicines and their active ingredients in cosmetics.Herein,the structure and function of six common active ingredients,phenolics,flavonoids,saponins,terpenoids,carotenoids,and natural polysaccharides,in Chinese herbal medicine were summarized.The five major functions,moisturizing,skin whitening,sun protection,anti-wrinkle and anti-acne as well as their action of the active ingredients were also reviewed.Finally,the existing problems and future development directions of functional ingredients of Chinese herbal medicine in the application of cosmetics were discussed.

关 键 词：中草药 活性成分 化妆品 功效 应用 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]