三维通孔结构三色三贾卡提花间隔鞋材的研发  

Development of three-jacquard spacer shoe fabrics with three-dimensional mesh structure and three-jacquard color

作　　者：孙园园 张琦 张燕婷 左露娇 丁宁宇 SUN Yuanyuan;ZHANG Qi;ZHANG Yanting;ZUO Lujiao;DING Ningyu(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2023年第7期110-115,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(61902150);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(JUSRP122003)。

摘　　要：针对目前经编单/双贾卡提花间隔鞋材难以实现三维通孔结构与三色提花效应同材呈现的产品设计问题,通过分析传统双贾卡梳栉配置织造目标鞋材的工艺难点,提出将RDPJ7/2双针床经编机的前针床地梳升级为贾卡梳的三贾卡梳栉配置方案,研究了三维通孔结构与三色提花效应同材的三贾卡提花工艺,通过鞋材的贾卡组织设计、原料穿经设计及垫纱工艺设计,上机织造兼具三维通孔结构与三色提花效应的三贾卡提花间隔鞋材。研究结果表明:经编三色提花间隔鞋材的三维通孔结构可以通过三贾卡提花工艺实现,且三贾卡在提高经编鞋材结构立体化、花色多样化及花纹复杂化方面更具优势。Objective At present,the warp knitted shoe fabrics on the market are mainly single-and double-jacquard shoe fabrics.However,due to the limitation of the number and configuration of the jacquard guide bars,it is difficult for single-and double-jacquard shoe fabrics to form the mesh structure both on the front layer and the back layer,and the color effect is singular.Therefore,by analyzing the process difficulties of knitting the target shoe fabrics with double-jacquard guide bar configuration,a three-jacquard bar arrangement scheme was proposed.The three-jacquard knitting process was further studied,and the three-jacquard shoe fabrics with both threedimensional(3-D)mesh structure and three-jacquard color effect were created,which enriches the product variety of warp knitted shoe fabrics,and a design method reference for the development of other three-jacquard shoe fabric was provided.Method By analyzing the jacquard guide bars configuration schemes of RDPJ6/2 and RDPJ7/2 warp knitted jacquard machines,the knitting function of every jacquard guide bar and general guide bar was studied,the technical difficulty of knitting the 3-D mesh structure and three-jacquard color effect was explored,and the configuration scheme of three-jacquard guide bars was proposed.Based on the RDJ6/3 guide bar configuration scheme,the jacquard process principle of three-dimensional mesh structure was studied,including the design of jacquard structure and jacquard offset information.At the same time,the process principle of using polyester,cationic modified polyester and polyamide to form three-jacquard color effect was studied,and the raw material piercing scheme and specific jacquard effect were analyzed in combination with the guide bar configuration of RDJ6/3.By using WKCAD design software and RDJ6/3 warp knitting machine,the three-jacquard spacer shoe fabrics with 3-D mesh structure and three-jacquard color effect were knitted on the machine according to the jacquard structure design,raw material threading design and lapping process d

关 键 词：针织工艺 经编间隔鞋材 双针床经编机 三色三贾卡提花 三维通孔结构 

分 类 号：TS184.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]