广西融水苗族传统女常服肩袖结构的优化  

Optimization of the shoulder sleeve structure of the traditional Miao women′s regular clothing in Rongshui,Guangxi

作　　者：陈颖平 严建云[2] CHEN Yingping;YAN Jianyun(College of Biological and Chemical Engineering,Guangxi University of Science and Technology,Liuzhou,Guangxi 545006,China;College of Humanities,Arts and Design,Guangxi University of Science and Technology,Liuzhou,Guangxi 545006,China)

机构地区：[1]广西科技大学生物与化学工程学院,广西柳州545006 [2]广西科技大学人文艺术与设计学院,广西柳州545006

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2023年第7期53-58,共6页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：广西高等教育本科教学改革工程立项项目(2020JGB250);广西科技大学研究生教育创新计划项目(GKYC202130)。

摘　　要：为了提高广西融水苗族传统女常服的穿着舒适性和美观性,针对广西融水苗族传统女常服现有版型结构相对简单、没有把平面的服装材料制成空间曲面的立体服装、肩袖部位存在衣料褶皱堆积导致手臂活动不舒适的问题,结合人体工程学,参考现代服装结构设计方法,在广西融水苗族传统女常服的肩袖位置加入腋下插角和增加肩斜角度,依次进行融水苗族传统女常服结构版型的优化实验,最终得到可在保持融水苗族传统女常服外观形象的基础上提高其穿着舒适性和美观性的肩袖优化结构。In order to improve the comfort and aesthetics of the traditional Miao women′s clothing in Rongshui,Guangxi,and to address the issues of relatively simple structure,no three-dimensional clothing made of flat clothing materials with spatial curved surfaces,and uncomfortable arm movements caused by the accumulation of material wrinkles in the shoulder sleeves,an underarm insertion angle was added and the shoulder angle was increased at the shoulder sleeve position of the traditional Miao women′s clothing in Rongshui,Guangxi by combing with ergonomics and referring to modern clothing structure design methods,the optimization experiment of the structural design of the traditional Miao women′s clothing in Rongshui was carried out in sequence.Finally,the optimized shoulder sleeve structure was obtained,which can improve the comfort and aesthetics of Rongshui Miao women′s clothing while maintaining its appearance image.

关 键 词：融水苗族女常服 服装结构 人体工程学 肩袖结构 结构优化 

分 类 号：TS941.74[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]