大提花织绣家纺面料的开发  

Development of Large Jacquard Woven Embroidery Home Textile Fabrics

作　　者：孙仁斌 仓亚萍 倪智婷 严以登[1] SUN Renbin;CANG Yaping;NI Zhiting;YAN Yideng(Jiangsu Yueda Textile(Group)Co.,Ltd.;Jiangsu Yueda Home Textile Co.,Ltd.:Yancheng 224000,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏悦达纺织集团有限公司,江苏盐城224000 [2]江苏悦达家纺有限公司,江苏盐城224000

出　　处：《纺织器材》2023年第4期49-53,57,共6页Textile Accessories

摘　　要：为了解决家纺面料绣花处厚度突变、手感僵硬,易产生密路和稀路疵点而形成的横档问题,介绍纺纱原料及其物理指标、面料设计参数,阐明纺纱工艺、烧毛工艺、经纱质量控制、整经工艺、穿经及织造工艺的技术要点;对比分析未采取措施、安装横档消除专用装置、变纬密工艺、安装横档消除专用装置和变纬密工艺相结合4种方法,对不同品种布面稀密路疵点的控制情况。结果表明:在大提花工艺基础上局部增加绣花织造工艺,采取安装横档消除专用装置和变纬密工艺相结合的方法,可解决因纬密突变带来的布面横档问题,生产的大提花织绣家纺面料色彩层次丰富、花型清晰、立体感强且手感顺滑柔软,产品的科技附加值和利润率较高。In order to solve the problems of sudden change of thickness and stiff hand feeling in the embroidery area of home textile fabrics,and easy to produce the problems of thick bars and crack marks,the spinning raw materials and their physical indexes,fabric design parameters are introduced,and the technical points of spinning process,singeing process,warp quality control,warping process,drawing-in and weaving process are expounded.The control situation of motion mark on different kinds of cloth surface is compared and analyzed by four methods of not taking measures,installing special device for crosspiece eliminating,changing weft density process,installing special device for crosspiece eliminating and changing weft density process.The results show that by adding local embroidery weaving technology on the basis of large jacquard technology and combining the installation of special device for eliminating crosspiece with the process of changing weft density,the problem of crosspiece caused by the sudden change of weft density can be solved.The large jacquard weaving home textile fabric has rich color levels,clear pattern,strong three-dimensional sense and smooth and soft hand feeling,and the technological added value and profit rate of the product can be higher.

关 键 词：大提花 织绣面料 烧毛 丝光 穿经 横档 变纬密工艺 稀密路 

分 类 号：TS106.54[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]