针织衬衫面料缝制问题与解决方案  

Problems and Solutions of Sewing of Knitted Shirt Fabric

作　　者：韩芳 和玉芳 宋法强 HAN Fang;HE Yufang;SONG Faqiang(Luthai Textile Co.,Ltd.,Zibo 255100,China)

机构地区：[1]鲁泰纺织股份有限公司,山东淄博255100

出　　处：《纺织器材》2023年第4期54-57,共4页Textile Accessories

摘　　要：为了解决针织衬衫面料在缝制过程中易出现针洞、面料尺寸不稳定、布边及裁片卷边、成衣下摆卷翘、折叠后外观不良等问题,详细分析问题产生的原因,并通过试验总结出解决方案和控制方法。指出:采用更换圆头机针或选用针身直径较小机针、降低机针缝线与缝料间摩擦力、控制生产环境的相对湿度等措施可减少针洞;用剪切布边、粘薄衬布、调整排版方式,可改善面料或裁片卷边;在成衣生产前对面料预缩,可提高成衣尺寸稳定性;调整衬衫下摆设计可改善底边卷翘;制作产前样确定衬衫样板尺寸,可提高衬衫尺寸稳定性;对折叠工艺进行调整,可改善衬衫折叠后外观。In order to solve the problems of needle holes,fabric size instability,selvage and cutting curling,garment hem warping,bad appearance after folding in the sewing process of knitted shirt fabric,the causes of the problems are analyzed in detail,and the solutions and control methods are summarized through experiments.It is pointed out that the needle holes can be reduced by replacing the round head needle or choosing the needle with a smaller diameter,reducing the friction between the sewing nesis and the sewing material of the needle,and controlling the relative humidity of the production environment.With cutting selvage,sticking thin interlining cloth,adjusting the layout,can improve the fabric cutting curling;the dimensional stability of the garment can be improved by preshrinking the fabric before production.Adjusting shirt hem design can improve the hem curling;making pre-production sample to determine shirt sample size can improve the stability of shirt size;the appearance of the shirt after folding can be improved by adjusting the folding process.

关 键 词：针织衬衫 面料 缝制 针洞 机针 相对湿度 卷边 尺寸稳定性 

分 类 号：TS183.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计] F768.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]