蚕丝织物的低温Mannich反应印花性能  

The printing properties of silk fabrics in a low temperature Mannich reaction

作　　者：毕淑芹 陈维国[2] 崔志华[2,3] 郭庆 宋秋亚 李惠军 张志强 BI Shuqin;CHEN Weiguo;CUI Zhihua;GUO Qing;SONG Qiuya;LI Huijun;ZHANG Zhiqiang(College of Textile Science and Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Key Laboratory of Advanced Textile Materials and Manufacturing Technology,Ministry of Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;National Engineering Research Center for Dyeing and Finishing of Textiles,Tai’an 271000,China;Hangzhou Huasi Xiasha Textile Technology Co.,Ltd.,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Houyuan Textile Technology Co.,Ltd.,Jiaxing 314511,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室,杭州310018 [3]国家先进印染技术创新中心,山东泰安271000 [4]杭州华丝夏莎纺织科技有限公司,杭州310018 [5]浙江厚源纺织股份有限公司,浙江嘉兴314511

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第8期47-53,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(22278377);浙江省自然科学基金项目(LY21B060010);“纺织之光”应用基础研究项目(J202108);国家先进印染技术创新中心项目(ZJ2021A03);浙江省桐乡市重点科技计划项目(202101006)。

摘　　要：为了探索对蚕丝织物的节能环保印花新方法,文章对商品C.I.活性橙13进行改性处理后,其可以转变为含芳伯胺基的染料M橙13。然后分别采用传统活性染料配方和芳伯胺染料三组分Mannich反应配方对蚕丝织物进行筛网印花,比较研究低温固色工艺对两种染料及印花配方的着色性能。与常规高温汽蒸固色进行对照,通过测定印花蚕丝织物的着色K/S值和固色率来评价不同染料及工艺的差异,分析低温固色过程温度、时间等工艺参数对芳伯胺染料Mannich反应印花性能的作用。结果表明,低温保湿放置温度对蚕丝织物的活性染料和芳伯胺染料Mannich反应印花K/S值有一定的影响,常规活性染料配方印花在60℃条件下低温保湿放置3 h就能获得较高的K/S值,比活性染料印花高温汽蒸固色工艺织物的K/S值稍低。而基于Mannich反应机制的芳伯胺染料印花和常规活性染料印花在相同低温保湿放置条件下获得相近的K/S值,且两种印花方法的耐皂洗色牢度和耐摩擦色牢度均能达到4级以上。因此,采用Mannich反应机制的芳伯胺染料印花可以获得低温无盐无碱固色的高色牢度印花性能。The acid dyes and reactive dyes are most commonly used in silk dyeing and printing.The weak forces such as hydrogen bonds,ion bonds and Van der Waals forces between acid dyes and silk exist,leading to the poor color fastness for wet treatment.Although reactive dyes can be covalently bonded with silk to obtain higher color fastness for wet treatment,they need to be fixed on silk under high temperature and alkaline conditions,and there are also problems such as large salt consumption and low dye utilization.Therefore,we proposed the chemical modification of the tyrosine side chain in silk fibroin by using dyes containing aromatic primary amine to achieve reactive dyeing on silk fibers.According to the theory of Mannich reaction,with aldehydes as bridge,dyes containing aromatic primary amine can react with silk tyrosine residues to form C—C—N covalent bond,which can be regarded as a reactive coloration of dyes containing aromatic primary amine on silk fibers.In this method,silk can obtain higher color depth value under low temperature and acidic conditions,and has also ideal color fastness to washing and rubbing.In this study,the commercial C.I.Reactive Orange 13 was modified to achieve a dye M Orange 13 containing aromatic primary amine group synthesized by using the active Cl atom on the reactive group of the original dye.Then,the traditional formula of reactive dyes and the three-component Mannich reaction formula of the dye containing aromatic primary amine were employed to screen printing of silk fabrics.The coloration performances of the two dyes and their printing formulas with the low-temperature fixing process were studied.Moreover,compared with the conventional printing of silk fabrics with high-temperature steaming,the differences of the two dyes and processes were evaluated by measuring the color depth value K/S and fixation rate of printed silk fabrics,and the effect of parameters such as temperature and time of low-temperature fixation process on the printing performance of the synthesized dye cont

关 键 词：蚕丝 印花 低温 MANNICH反应 芳伯胺染料 

分 类 号：TS194.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]