单面起绒的双面艾德莱斯设计与制作  

Design and production of double-sided Aidelaisi with single-sided fleece

作　　者：井一凡 祖丽胡玛尔·阿巴拜科日 杨帆 刘瑞 JING Yifan;ZILIHUMAER Ababaikeri;YANG Fan;LIU Rui(College of Textiles and Clothing,Xinjiang University,Urumqi 830046,China;College of Chemical and Textile Engineering,Xinjiang University of Science&Technology,Korla 841003,China)

机构地区：[1]新疆大学纺织与服装学院,乌鲁木齐830046 [2]新疆科技学院化工与纺织工程学院,新疆库尔勒841003

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第8期115-121,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家级大学生创业训练计划项目(202010755009X)。

摘　　要：传统艾德莱斯的组织固化、品种单一、应用范围受限制,主要局限于制作女性的夏季衣裙。在保持传统艾德莱斯加工制作方法基本不变的前提下,通过对织物组织的创新设计,利用杆织法经起绒的方法使织物的一面呈现起绒效果的艾德莱斯外观,使织物的另一面依然呈现传统艾德莱斯的外观,即单面起绒的双面艾德莱斯。文章介绍了单面起绒的双面艾德莱斯的设计及织造过程,并通过改变经纬纱的密度、绒经与地经和里经的张力差、经纱的缩率、打纬力度及起绒杆的直径和硬度等参数来达到预期的起绒效果。该新型织物不仅具有双面效应,还有绒面效果,进一步改善了织物品种。此种面料不但有其独特的用途,而且能带来系列产品的延伸和市场的拓展。Aidelaisi is a traditional dress fabric with great personality.It combines unique binding and dyeing technology with bright colors,and its presentation is neither monotonous nor pompous.“The weaving and dyeing technology of Aidelaisi”was selected into the national intangible cultural heritage list in 2008.Although Aidelaisi contains rich cultural heritage,with the development of the times and the difference of the public’s aesthetic level,Aidelaisi with distinctive characteristics has gradually lost its advantages and faced many embarrassments and limitations,which are mainly reflected in the processing quality and the form of expression.In terms of material,it is mainly produced from silk,and the fabric made is mainly suitable for summer clothes,which is too monotonous compared with other fabrics;as for dyeing,tie-dyeing is operated manually,with low production efficiency,poor color fastness and poor repeatability;in terms of variety,the traditional Aidelaisi has undiversified specifications and narrow width.Although the elements of Aidelaisi have gradually appeared in modern clothing,there has been no no more innovative development in organizational structure and processing technology for the traditional Aidelaisi.Based on this,this paper aims to develop the double-sided Aidelaisi with single-sided fleece,expand the application scope of Aidelaisi,break through the shackles of Aidelaisi mainly applicable to summer skirts,make Aidelaisi more in line with the public’s aesthetic and diversified clothing and clothing needs,inject new vitality into Aidelaisi,and boost the development of the Aidelaisi industry.Firstly,the double-sided Aidelaisi fabric was designed according to the traditional fabric structure of the traditional Aidelaisi fabric,the design method of velvet warp pile weave was used for reference,and and the double-sided Aidelaisi fabric with single-sided fleece was designed,including the weave drawing,reed drawing,heald drawing and pattern layout.Secondly,we carried out small sample trial weavin

关 键 词：新疆 艾德莱斯 经起绒组织 双面织物 设计制作 织物组织 

分 类 号：TS145.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]