“岩钉之争”:历史社会学视角下的攀岩运动伦理冲突  

"Piton Dispute":A Perspective of Historical Sociology on the Ethical Conflicts in Rock Climbing

作　　者：朱倍锋 李元[2] ZHU Beifeng;LI Yuan(School of Sports Sciences and Physical Education,South China Normal University,Guangzhou 510006,Guangdong,China;Department of Physical Education,China University of Geosciences,Wuhan 430074,Hubei,China)

机构地区：[1]华南师范大学体育科学学院,广东广州510006 [2]中国地质大学(武汉)体育学院,湖北武汉430074

出　　处：《上海体育学院学报》2023年第8期44-55,共12页Journal of Shanghai University of Sport

基　　金：国家体育总局登山运动管理中心重点科研项目(CMA2019-A-C06)。

摘　　要：攀岩进入奥运会后迅速发展,其文化、伦理问题也引发关注。采用历史社会学方法,以攀岩史上首次公开伦理论战“岩钉之争”为主要案例,构建史料背景并引入皮埃尔·布迪厄的社会实践理论分析攀岩运动的伦理冲突。认为:论战的主要内容包括器械的使用与滥用、个人冒险与社会责任、精英主义限制与山地自由、人与自然的关系4个方面;论战的直接诱因是行动者惯习在变化实践空间的“滞后”,根源于登山运动的浪漫主义审美区隔与文化精英“异治”下的再生产,以及技术进步促使工人阶级向导位置变化带来的人道主义生存需要回归。当前一些新的争议与“岩钉之争”有理论共性:风险价值可视为符号资本,须通过实践理解其逻辑;攀岩环保可视为区隔打破后的现实问题,除维护手段外也可通过自然教育等方式重建美学理念;竞技攀岩异化问题体现了难以避免的政治、商业“异治”,发挥政府及体育组织的作用是促进其可持续发展的关键。Rock climbing has developed rapidly since featured in the Summer Olympic Games programme,at the same time its cultural and ethical concerns have also been raised.Based on the methodology of historical sociology,the first public ethical conflict"Piton Dispute"in the history of rock climbing is taken as the main case to construct the historical background and the ethical conflicts of rock climbing with the introduction of Bourdieu's social practice theory are analyzed.It states that the main content of the dispute includes four aspects including the use and abuse of equipment,personal adventure and social responsibility,elitism restriction and mountain freedom,and the relationship between human and nature.The trigger of the dispute is the"hysteresis"of the agent's habitus in the changing practical spaces.The historical roots are respectively the aesthetic distinction that originated from the mountaineering in the romantic aesthetic division and the reproduction under the heteronomy of cultural elites,as well as the returning of humanitarian survival needs brought about by the position changes of the working-class guides caused by the technological progress.At present,there are theoretical analogies between some new issues and the"Piton Dispute":The"value at risk"can be regarded as symbolic capital,and its logic needs to be understood through practice.The"environmental protection"can be regarded as a real problem since the distinction was broken.Except special maintenance,the aesthetic concept can also be reestablished through natural education or other means.The"alienation"problem reflects the unavoidable heteronomy owing to the political and commercial factors.The key to the sustainable development of rock climbing is to give full play to the role of the government and sports organizations.

关 键 词：攀岩运动 伦理冲突 “岩钉之争” 历史社会学 社会实践理论 文化 

分 类 号：G80-05[文化科学—运动人体科学]