经编双贾卡双色穿透网眼间隔鞋材工艺研究  

Study of the Warp Knitted Double Jacquard Bi-color Through-mesh Spacer Shoe Material

作　　者：左露娇 张琦 张燕婷 丁宁宇 Zuo Lujiao;Zhang Qi;Zhang Yanting;Ding Ningyu(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《针织工业》2023年第7期1-4,共4页Knitting Industries

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助(JUSRP122003);江苏省自然科学青年基金项目(BK20221094);无锡市“太湖之光”科技攻关(基础研究)项目(K20221007)。

摘　　要：为改善经编双贾卡鞋材网眼提花效应简单、网眼大小变化受限的问题,通过分析双贾卡间隔织物网眼形成原理与穿透网眼效应和透色网眼效应两种贾卡网眼提花的设计思路、制作方法以及对应织物的结构特点,提出一种将穿透网眼和透色网眼结合的经编双贾卡网眼提花设计方法,以在织物表面呈现多种双色效应。同时利用线圈延展线与间隔丝间牵拉作用,在透孔中心形成牵拉网层,实现增强鞋材穿着适应性而不降低网眼织物抗撕裂性能的效果,为经编双贾卡鞋材的网眼提花产品设计提供更多新的思路。In order to make the warp knitted double jacquard shoe material show more mesh jacquard effects and enlarge the mesh size design scope,the paper analyzes the principle of mesh formation of double jacquard spacer fabrics and the design with through-mesh effect and translucent mesh effect.It proposes a warp knitted double jacquard mesh jacquard design method that combines through-mesh and translucent mesh,which can present a variety of two-color effects on the surface of the fabric.This method uses the pulling action between the underlap and the spacer yarn to form a traction mesh layer in the center of the perforation,so as to achieve the effect of enhancing the wearing adaptability of the shoe material without reducing the tear resistance of the mesh fabric,which provides development guidance for the design of mesh jacquard products for warp kntted double jacquard shoe materials.

关 键 词：经编 双贾卡 网眼设计 间隔织物 鞋面材料 

分 类 号：TS184.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]