“棉盖涤”针织物接缝强力的影响因素  

Influencing factors analysis on joint strength of cotton-covered-polyester knitted fabric

作　　者：谭冬宜[1] 唐文燕 苏哲 杨邵蓉 TAN Dongyi;TANG Wenyan;SU Zhe;YANG Shaorong(College of Textile and Fashion,Hunan Institute of Engineering,Xiangtan 411104,Hunan,China;Dongguan Texwinca Textile&Garment Limited,Dongguan 523000,Guangdong,China)

机构地区：[1]湖南工程学院纺织服装学院,湖南湘潭411104 [2]东莞德永佳纺织制衣有限公司,广东东莞523000

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2023年第8期5-7,10,共4页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：湖南省教育厅优秀青年项目(20B135);湖南省科技创新计划资助(2021RC1011);湖南工程学院大学生创新创业训练计划项目[校教字(2021)21号-33]。

摘　　要：“棉盖涤”针织面料经抓毛后在服装缝制过程中缝口易出现爆孔问题,且面料接缝强力是衡量接缝质量的重要指标。以精梳棉紧密纺SIRO(AA)纱作为面纱,以涤纶轻网DTY丝作为底纱,设计了6种“棉盖涤”针织面料。为探究面料接缝强力的影响因素,设计了14.5、18.0、19.5、22.5 tex 4种面纱线密度,0、0.3、0.6 g/L 3种蚀毛水质量浓度以及不抓毛、正常抓毛、重抓毛3种抓毛程度。通过垂直拉伸法探究了以上3种因素对面料直向、横向接缝强力的影响。结果表明,“棉盖涤”针织面料的接缝强力随着面纱线密度、蚀毛水质量浓度、抓毛程度的变化而变化,面纱19.5 tex、蚀毛水质量浓度0.3 g/L、正常抓毛时面料的接缝强力最佳。Cotton-covered-polyester knitted fabrics is prone to burst holes at the seam during the clothing sewing process after being brushed.Fabric joint strength is an important indicator to measure the quality of the seams.With the combing cotton SIRO(AA)yarn as the face yarn,and the polyester light net DTY yarn as the bottom yarn,the six types of cotton-covered-polyester knitted fabric is designed.In order to explore the influencing factors of fabric joint strength,four kinds of face yarns namely 14.5,18,19.5 and 22.5 tex,three kinds of etching water concentration namely 0,0.3,0.6 g/L,and three kinds of scratching process namely no scratching,normal scratching and serious scratching are designed.The influence of the above three factors on the longitudinal and transverse joint strength is tested by vertical stretching method.The results show that the joint strength of the cotton-covered-polyester knitted fabric changes with the fineness of the face yarn,etching water concentration and hair scratching process.While the face yarn is 19.5 tex and the etching water concentration is O.3 g/L,the joint strength of the fabric after normal hair scratching process is the best.

关 键 词：“棉盖涤”针织物 接缝强力 蚀毛 抓毛 

分 类 号：TS184[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]