全成形毛衫肩袖成形结构编织工艺  

Knitting process of shoulders and sleeves of whole garment

作　　者：赖安琪 蒋高明[1] LAI Anqi;JIANG Gaoming(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2023年第8期17-22,共6页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：泰山产业领军人才(tscy20180224)。

摘　　要：为研究全成形毛衫肩袖成形结构的线圈形态,更好地对全成形毛衫进行仿真与虚拟展示,依托日本岛精公司MACH2-153X 18G以及SDS-ONE APEX3设计系统,对全成形毛衫肩袖成形结构的编织工艺进行研究。根据工艺特点与成形效果将编织工艺分为6种,并以常见的全成形毛衫肩袖结构为例分析了具体的编织动作。研究表明:比率编织法可以调整袖山外形;平袖山工艺结合平袖山比率编织与空移针,常在接肩时使用;多织工艺可以形成特殊的外形效果;接片工艺通过线圈均收使肩膀成形;局部编织工艺用于形成肩斜及领弧线;收加针工艺可以调整织片的宽度,并使相邻织片相连。In order to study the loops shapes of shoulders and sleeves of whole garment and better simulate and virtual display of the whole garment,knitting technology of shoulders and sleeves of whole garment is studied by using Japanese SHIMA SEIKI MACH-153X 18G and SDS-ONE APEX3 design system.The knitting technology is divided into 6 kinds based on technical features and forming effect,and concrete knitting actions are analyzed by taking common shoulders and sleeves of whole garment as examples.It is concluded that ratio weaving can be used to adjust the shape of sleeve crown.Ratio weaving on sleeve head and transferring loops are used together when connecting sleeves and shoulders.Special shaping effect can be formed by extra knitting.Panels are applicable to shape shoulders by reducing loops equally.Knitting partially can be used to shape shoulder slope and neckline.Increasing and reducing loops can be used to alter the width of kniting piece and connect adjacent pieces.

关 键 词：针织工艺 全成形毛衫 肩袖成形 四针床电脑横机 编织方法 

分 类 号：TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]