Analysis of wave shoaling and shore-breakers on a low tide terrace beach based on in-situ measurements at Xisha Bay on South China coast  

作　　者：Yuan Li Chi Zhang Hongshuai Qi Jiacheng Song Weiqi Dai Shanhang Chi Jian Shi Dake Chen 

机构地区：[1]The National Key Laboratory of Water Disaster Prevention,Hohai University,Nanjing 210024,China [2]College of Harbour,Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Hohai University,Nanjing 210024,China [3]State Key Laboratory of Estuarine and Coastal Research,East China Normal University,Shanghai 200241,China [4]Third Institute of Oceanography,Ministry of Natural Resources,Xiamen 361005,China [5]Shanghai Waterway Engineering Design and Consulting Co.,Ltd,Shanghai 200120,China [6]Yellow River Institute of Hydraulic Research,Yellow River Conservancy Commission,Zhengzhou 450000,China [7]Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute,Nanjing 210029,China

出　　处：《Acta Oceanologica Sinica》2023年第7期175-184,共10页海洋学报（英文版）

基　　金：The Key Program of National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.41930538;the Open Research Fund of State Key Laboratory of Estuarine and Coastal Research,East China Normal University under contract No.SKLEC-KF202203;the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.52201317;the National Key Research and Development Program under contract No.2022YFC3106102;the China Postdoctoral Science Foundation under contract No.2022M711023;the Jiangsu Funding Program for Excellent Postdoctoral Talent under contract No.2022ZB148.

摘　　要：Low tide terrace beach is a main beach type along South China coasts with strong tidal actions.How strong tides affect wave transformations on low tide terrace beach still remains unclear.In this study,in-situ measurements are conducted on the low terrace beach at Xisha Bay to provide quantitative descriptions of wave shoaling and shore-breaker phenomena under the tidal effects.It is found that wave breaking is unsaturated on the low tide terrace beach at Xisha Bay.Magnitudes of wave skewness and asymmetry increase as wave shoals and achieve the maximum value at the shore-breaker,and then decrease rapidly.Mean energy dissipation rates of shore-breakers are tide-modulated since the bottom slope changes at the shoreward boundary of wave propagation in a tidal cycle.The remaining wave energy flux at the initialization of the shore-breaker is 1%–12%of offshore wave energy flux,and the energy flux ratio decreases with increasing offshore wave heights.Wave attenuation at shore-breakers can be estimated directly from offshore wave conditions based on findings in this study,favoring designs of seawalls or beach nourishment projects.Field datasets on wave transformations can also be used for verifications of wave numerical models.

关 键 词：sandy beach low tide terrace waves shore-breakers South China coasts 

分 类 号：U656.2[交通运输工程—港口、海岸及近海工程] P731.22[交通运输工程—船舶与海洋工程]