市井文化影响下的明代江南女性服饰  

Women's Dress in Jiangnan of Ming Dynasty Under the Influence of Civil Culture

作　　者：贾琦 涂慧敏 JIA Qi;TU Huimin(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430073

出　　处：《服装学报》2023年第4期363-368,共6页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：武汉市应用基础前沿研究项目(2022023988065215);武汉纺织大学研究生精品课程建设项目。

摘　　要：明代服饰种类繁多、绚丽多彩,而市井文化的变迁与发展对明代服饰变革有着巨大影响,其中以江南地区女性服饰最为典型。以明代江南女性为研究对象,通过文献研究、图像分析等方法,探究市井文化的特征,并分析其对江南女性服饰的影响。研究表明:市井文化所具有的商品经济属性、人本主义精神及多元化发展等特征,对明代江南女性在服饰造型、色彩、质料上的奢侈、僭越行为,以及明中后期江南地区掀起的时尚运动都有直接影响,在市井文化推动下江南女性审美趣味更趋多样化,服饰愈加注重装饰性与艺术性。The emergence and development of civil culture had great influence on the costume reform in Ming Dynasty,especially the female costume in Jiangnan area.This paper focuses on the study of women in Jiangnan during Ming Dynasty to explores the characteristics of civil culture,and analyzes its influence on women's costume in Jiangnan area.It is concluded that the civil culture has the attributes of commodity economy,humanistic spirit and the characteristics of diversified development of Jiangnan women,which causes certain effects on the clothing modelling,colour,material,and fashion movement in mid-late Ming Dynasty.The civil culture driven by Jiangnan women dress are increasingly paying attention to decorative and artistic quality.

关 键 词：市井文化 明代服饰 江南女性 服饰特征 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]