板栗壳色素的提取及对蚕丝织物的染色性能  

Extraction of chestnut shell pigment and its dyeing properties on silk fabric

作　　者：章双双 陈宜灿 王祥荣[1,3] ZHANG Shuangshuang;CHEN Yican;WANG Xiangrong(College of Textile and Clothing Engineering of Soochow University,Suzhou 215123,China;IndiDye China Co.Ltd.,Shanghai 201101,China;National Textile and Apparel Council Key Laboratory of Natural Dyes,Soochow University,Suzhou 215123,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院,江苏苏州215123 [2]英迪达(上海)纺织科技有限公司,上海201101 [3]苏州大学纺织行业天然染料重点实验室,江苏苏州215123

出　　处：《印染助剂》2023年第8期15-20,共6页Textile Auxiliaries

基　　金：苏州大学校企合作项目(H230354)。

摘　　要：采用碱提法从板栗壳中提取板栗壳色素,探讨色素提取温度、碱质量浓度、时间对提取效率的影响;将提取色素应用于蚕丝织物染色,探讨染浴pH、温度、时间及媒染工艺对染色性能的影响。结果表明:板栗壳色素碱提取优化工艺为:温度95℃、碱质量浓度10 g/L、时间60~90 min;提取色素上染蚕丝织物的优化工艺为:染浴pH 3、温度98℃、时间40 min,媒染有利于提高得色量和色牢度,但是颜色鲜艳度下降,铁媒染后耐光色牢度由直接染色的2级提高到3~4级。Using alkali extraction method to extract chestnut shell pigments from chestnut shells,the ef⁃fects of pigment extraction temperature,alkali concentration,and time on extraction efficiency were investigat⁃ed.Applying extracted pigments to silk fabric dyeing,the effects of dyeing bath pH,temperature,time,and mordant dyeing process on dyeing performance were explored.The results showed that the optimal process for alkaline extraction of chestnut shell pigment was temperature 95℃,alkali concentration 10 g/L,and time 60-90 min.The optimal process conditions for extracting pigments and dyeing silk fabrics were pH 3 in the dyeing bath,temperature 98℃,and time 40 min.Mordant dyeing was beneficial for improving color yield and color fastness,but the brightness of the color decreased.After iron mordant dyeing,the light fastness in⁃creased from level 2 of direct dyeing to level 3-4.

关 键 词：板栗壳色素 提取 蚕丝织物 染色 

分 类 号：TS193.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]