桑蚕丝织物在洗涤过程中的褪色行为研究  

Study on fading behavior of silk fabrics during washing

作　　者：胡钒 张红娟 郭静 王际平 HU Fan;ZHANG Hongjuan;GUO Jing;WANG Jiping(School of Textile and Fashion,Shanghai University of Engineering Science,Shanghai 201620,China;Shanghai Engineering Research Center for Clean Production of Textile Chemistry,Shanghai University of Engineering Science,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]上海工程技术大学纺织服装学院,上海201620 [2]上海工程技术大学上海纺织化学清洁生产工程技术研究中心,上海201620

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2023年第8期36-41,共6页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：为了改善桑蚕丝产品在洗涤过程中极易褪色现象,以酸性湖蓝5GM染色丝绸为试验对象,洗涤时间、洗涤温度、洗涤剂浓度、水硬度、浴比、机械力(钢珠数)为试验变量,通过JMP软件设计试验,利用最小二乘法逐步分析各项因素的作用规律,从洗涤后丝织物的表观深度(K/S值)及染料掉落量角度进行丝织物褪色行为研究。结果发现:对于K/S值而言,洗涤时间和机械力为最显著影响因素,与纤维表面受磨损有关,在染料掉落量相同时,织物的表观深度也可能有明显差异;酸性染料掉落量受洗涤剂浓度的影响最显著,这主要和洗涤剂与酸性染料之间的强相互作用有关;因此为防止桑蚕丝织物在洗涤过程中褪色,应合理控制洗涤剂浓度、洗涤时间和机械力作用;丝织物染料掉落量及K/S预测模型经验证,具有较高的可靠性。In order to improve the phenomenon that silk products are prone to be fading during washing,silk dyed with acid lake blue 5GM was used as the test object,and the washing time,washing temperature,detergent concentration,water hardness,bath ratio,and mechanical force were used as the experimental variables.The experiment was designed by JMP software,and the factors were gradually analyzed by the least square method.The law of the action of silk fabrics was studied from the perspective of the apparent depth(K/S value)and the amount of dye shedding of silk fabrics after washing.It was found that:for the K/S value,washing time and mechanical force are the most significant factors,which are related to the abrasion of the fiber surface,and the apparent depth of the fabric may also be significantly different When the amount of dye dropped is the same.The shedding of acid dyes is most significantly affected by the concentration of detergent,which is mainly related to the strong interaction between detergent and acid dyes;therefore,in order to prevent the fading of real silk fabrics during washing,the concentration of detergent,washing time and mechanical force should be controlled reasonably.In addition,the dye shedding and K/S prediction models of silk fabrics obtained have been verified and have high reliability.

关 键 词：丝织物 酸性染料 洗涤 褪色 

分 类 号：TS190.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]