清代团鹤纹石青缎的染料鉴定及色彩分析  

Dye identification and color analysis of azurite satin with a crane roundel pattern in the Qing Dynasty

作　　者：李永固 金鉴梅 高素芸 张国伟 刘剑[1,2,4] 赵丰 LI Yonggu;JIN Jianmei;GAO Suyun;ZHANG Guowei;LIU Jian;ZHAO Feng(College of Textile Science and Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;International Institute of Silk,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310002,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学国际丝绸学院,杭州310018 [3]东华大学服装艺术设计学院,上海200051 [4]中国丝绸博物馆,杭州310002

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第9期35-43,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家重点研发计划项目(2019YFC1520302)。

摘　　要：纺织品文物是人类历史文化的珍贵遗产,色彩是纺织品文物重要的外在表现,而染料是色彩表现的基本内核。染料考古通过对文物的色彩、染料进行测试,结合古文献记载,可获得染料来源、染色工艺、内在审美、商品流通、文物年代和产地等重要历史信息。本文以中国丝绸博物馆馆藏清代团鹤纹石青缎为例,运用高效液相色谱—质谱联用技术检测丝织品文物上的染料,成功鉴别出红色染料苏木,蓝色染料靛青,黄色染料姜黄、黄檗、黄荆等,并结合相关历史文献对清代纺织品色彩的使用进行了分析。苏木与姜黄套染可得杏黄色,黄檗、黄荆与靛青套染可得绿色。该文物是在清代纺织品中发现使用黄荆染料的首个案例。该文物的鉴别结果为清代丝织品染色研究提供了科学依据,结合色彩分析有助于研究清代时期的经济、文化历史,亦可为清代丝织品色彩复制和文物修复及展示方法提供参考。Textile cultural relics are the precious heritage of human history and culture,colors are an important expression of textile cultural relics,and dyes are the basic core of color expression.Dye archaeology is an important branch in the study of textile relics.By testing the colors and dyes of cultural relics and combining with ancient literature records,important historical information such as dye source,dyeing process,internal aesthetics,commodity circulation,age and origin of cultural relics can be obtained.The azurite satin with a crane roundel pattern in the Qing Dynasty is well preserved and rich in color,which to some extent represents the dyeing technology level of the Qing Dynasty,so it is of great value to study the history and culture of this silk cultural relic and the dyeing technology of China in the Qing Dynasty.To learn about the historical information contained in silk textile cultural relics of the Qing Dynasty and excavate the artistic value,the natural dyes used in the azurite satin with a crane roundel pattern collected in China National Silk Museum were detected by using HPLC-MS technology.The retention time of chromatography,the maximum absorption wavelength of the ultraviolet-visible spectrum,and primary and secondary mass spectrometry of the dye pigments were combined to identify the dye raw materials used in the cultural relics.In addition,the use of textile colors in the Qing Dynasty was analyzed by combining the identification results with relevant historical documents in the Qing Dynasty,such as Book of Cloth and Settlement Archives of Dyeing Workshops of the Ministry of Internal Affairs.The results showed that urolithin C,brazilien,curcumin and its two derivatives were detected in the orange embroidery thread of the azurite satin with a crane roundel pattern of the Qing Dynasty.Berberine,palmatine and indirubin were detected in the light green embroidery thread.Isoorientin,luteolin-O-glucoside,and indirubin were detected in the dark green embroidery thread.Indirubin was detected in the

关 键 词：高效液相色谱—质谱联用技术(HPLC-MS) 清代石青缎 染料鉴别 染色方法 靛青 黄荆 

分 类 号：TS101.913[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] TQ611[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]