从商路地域差异看民国晋商服饰艺术特征与文化内涵  

An analysis of the artistic characteristics and cultural connotation of the clothing of Jin-merchantsin the Republic of China from the perspective of regional differences of commercial routes

作　　者：梁惠娥[1,2,3] 方凌云 贾蕾蕾 LIANG Hui’e;FANG Lingyun;JIA Leilei(School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Jiangsu Research Center for Intangible Cultural Heritage,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;School of Media and Arts,Wuxi University,Wuxi 214063,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学设计学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学江苏省非物质文化遗产研究基地,江苏无锡214122 [3]无锡学院传媒与艺术学院,江苏无锡214063

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第9期128-134,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学一般项目(21BG142)。

摘　　要：民国晋商商路发达,其服饰受各地域经济文化、民俗风尚等影响,形成了多样的艺术特征。文章从民国晋商涉足的三晋地区、蒙中地区、江南地区入手,分析各区域晋商的服饰特色,探究其背后的文化内涵。研究认为,源起于三晋地区的晋商服饰是黄河流域文化的典型例证,通过恪守当地服饰保守简朴的特征,对儒商观念的信仰进行物化表达。蒙中地区和江南地区的晋商服饰根据环境决定形象差异,利用服饰表明身份符号,以便快速融入当地商贸环境并突破群体界限,寻得异乡文化认同,构建出多元一体、守随并蓄的民俗风貌。In the period of the Republic of China,the commercial routes of the Jin-merchants were well developed.Their clothing was influenced by regional economy,culture,folk customs and so on,forming a variety of artistic features.Starting from the Sanjin region,Russia and Mongolia region and Jiangnan region where Jin-merchants were involved in the Republic of China,we analyzed the clothing characteristics of Jin-merchants in each region and exployed the cultural connotation behind them.In the period of the Republic of China,the shape of clothing of the Jin-merchants in the Sanjin region was characterized by the long gown and jacket conservative and heavy in style.The fabric was mainly made of cotton and hemp silk,with high color saturation,warm colors and strong contrast.The patterns covered a large area,and were mainly made of roundel longevity pattern,roundel Feng character pattern and plant image in Shanxi area,symbolizing the auspicious and prosperous family.The shape of the Jin-merchants’clothing in the Russian and Mongolian regions was similar to that in the Sanjin region,but it was longitudinally shortening and transversely lengthening overall,being broad and rough in style.The fabrics were mainly cotton and fur,thick and simple,with low color saturation,cold color system and weak contrast.The Jin-merchants’clothing in Jiangnan region was divided into the“localization”stage and“Westernization”stage.In the localization stage of the early Republic of China,the shape of Jin-merchants’clothes was similar to that in the Sanjin region,while the fabrics were mainly silk,cotton and hemp,magnificent,simple and cool colors.In the later“Westernization”stage,the shape of clothing was gradually integrated,and the accessories were added to the top hat,shoes,gold glasses,pocket watches and other foreign items,forming the both Chinese and Western style on the whole.We believe that Jin-merchants’clothing is the manifestation of regional culture along the trade routes.Originating in the Sanjin region,Jin-merchan

关 键 词：晋商服饰 地域差异 “一带一路”倡议 文化认同 多元一体 民俗文化 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]