强捻精梳长绒棉交织凉感纬编面料开发与性能  

Development and Performance of Strong Twisted Combed Long Staple Cotton Interknitted Cool-feel Weft Fabric

作　　者：李天剑 张佩华[2] 蒋圣敏 乔志洁 Li Tianjian;Zhang Peihua;Jiang Shengmin;Qiao Zhijie(Shanghai Threegun(Group)Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 201315,China;College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]上海三枪(集团)有限公司,上海201315 [2]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620

出　　处：《针织工业》2023年第8期11-14,共4页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：优选100%强捻精梳棉纱,与5.6tex/32f(50D/32f)Sorona■DTY长丝交织,开发单面纬平针添纱织物和双罗纹织物,给出针织织造和染整工艺,测试与分析了研发面料的凉感功能和服用舒适性能。结果表明,两种织物均具有较好的柔软性能、透气性能、抗起毛起球性以及尺寸稳定性;两种织物均具有较好的强力,且双面织物强力明显优于单面织物;在小变形定负荷、定伸长拉伸作用时,单面织物及双面织物均体现出较高的弹性回复率;两种织物均具有较好的热湿传递性能,且单面织物热湿传递性能优于双面织物。因此,强捻精梳棉纱交织凉感面料适用于夏季贴身针织服装,具有较好的市场应用前景。The 100%strong twisted combed cotton yarn was selected and interknitted with 5.6 tex/32 f(50 D/32 f)Sorona?DTY filament.The single-sided plaited fabric and interlock fabric were developed.The knitting,dyeing and finishing processes were given.The cooling and comfort properties of the developed fabrics were tested and analyzed.The results show that the two fabrics have good soft properties,air permeability,anti-pilling and dimensional stability.Both fabrics have better strength,and the strength of double-sided fabric is obviously better than that of single-sided fabric.Under small deformation and constant load and constant elongation,both single-sided fabric and double-sided fabric exhibit higher elastic recovery rate.Both fabrics have good heat and humidity transfer performance,and the heat and humidity transfer performance of single-sided fabric is better than that of doublesided fabric.Therefore,the strong twisted combed cotton yarn interknitted cool-feel fabric is suitable for summer close-knit clothing,which has a good market application prospect.

关 键 词：强捻棉纱 Sorona■ 凉感 纬编 面料 服用舒适性能 针织织造 染整工艺 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]