“锦灰堆”绘画元素在男士休闲装设计中的应用  

Application of Jinhuidui Painting Elements in Men′s Casual Wear Design

作　　者：左洪芬[1] 张格 王静 秦莹 杨雅莉[1] 张伟萌 蓝伟平 ZUO Hongfen;ZHANG Ge;WANG Jing;QIN Ying;YANG Yali;ZHANG Weimeng;LAN Weiping(College of Textile and Garment,Yantai Nanshan University,Yantai 265706,China;Technology Research and Development Department,Shandong Nanshan Zhishang Technology Co.,Ltd.,Yantai 265706,China)

机构地区：[1]烟台南山学院纺织与服装学院,山东烟台265706 [2]山东南山智尚科技股份有限公司技术研发部,山东烟台265706

出　　处：《纺织科技进展》2023年第8期52-57,共6页Progress in Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：2020年“纺织之光”中国纺织工业联合会高等教育教学改革研究项目(2021BKJGLX745);烟台南山学院2020年青年教师科研基金资助项目(Q202011);2018年度南山集团科技项目(J202001);烟台南山学院教学改革研究项目(NSJM202152)、(NSJM202223)。

摘　　要：从保护山东省非物质文化遗产的角度出发,在对山东淄博地区锦灰堆展览馆的实地调研基础上,归纳出“锦灰堆”绘画具有淡雅仿古的主色调、乱中有序的透视效果、独具特色的残破美感等艺术特征。以男士休闲装设计为切入点,提取“锦灰堆”绘画元素中的色彩、图案、造型、技法等应用于男士休闲装设计中,在工艺上主要采用印花、拼贴、做旧、撕边等方式,同时采用旧衣改造、面料二次创造等生态环保的设计手法实现面料的创新设计,完成服装整体造型。如今各行业推崇将中华传统文化与现代设计有机结合,提取“锦灰堆”绘画元素并将其应用到男士休闲装设计中,对“锦灰堆”绘画元素在多载体上的应用进行探索,在保护和传承优秀传统文化的同时,亦为男士休闲服装多元化设计提供思路。From the perspective of protecting the intangible cultural heritage of Shandong Province,based on the field trip of the Jinhuidui Exhibition Hall in Zibo,it was concluded that Jinhuidui paintings had artistic characteristics such as elegant and antique main colors,chaotic and orderly perspective effects and unique artistic features such as broken beauty.Taking the design of men′s casual wear as the starting point,the colors,patterns,shapes and techniques of Jinhuidui painting elements were extracted to apply to men′s casual wear design.Printing,collage,old-fashioned,torn edges and the eco-friendly design methods such as the transformation of old clothing and the secondary creation of fabrics were adopted to realize the innovative design of fabrics and the clothing design.Nowadays,various industries encourage the organic combination of Chinese traditional culture with modern design.The painting elements of Jinhuidui were extracted and applied to the design of men′s casual wear to protect and inherit the traditional culture while providing ideas for the diversified design of men′s casual wear.

关 键 词：“锦灰堆”元素 休闲装 男装设计 工艺制作 

分 类 号：TS941.718[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]