仿松球叶片结构面料的制备及其调湿性能  

Study on structure and humidity control performance of pine cone like fabrics

作　　者：胡亦雯 唐虹[1] 唐天一 魏书涛 HU Yiwen;TANG Hong;TANG Tianyi;WEI Shutao(Department of Textile and Garment,Nantong University,Nantong,Jiangsu 226019,China;University of International Business and Economics Cambridge International School,Beijing 100029,China;361°(China)Limited,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215000,China)

机构地区：[1]南通大学纺织服装学院,江苏南通226019 [2]对外经济贸易大学剑桥国际学校,北京100029 [3]三六一度(中国)有限公司,江苏苏州215000

出　　处：《纺织学报》2023年第8期118-125,共8页Journal of Textile Research

摘　　要：为实现面料随人体湿度变化而自动调节散湿量的功能,研究并模拟松球叶片随湿度自动张开闭合的微观结构,采用在涤纶/氨纶针织物表面涂层聚氨酯,形成吸湿伸长变化差异大的主动层与从动层结构,从而制备仿松球功能面料。研究了仿松球面料叶片纵横比、叶片方向、涂层附着率等结构参数与叶片张开时间、张开角度、张开速度和有效张开率等湿度调节相关性能之间的关系。研究发现:当仿松球叶片纵横比为65%、叶片方向为从动层面料经向、涂层附着率为66.7%时,仿松球面料的调湿性能最优,其仿松球叶片面料可根据穿着者衣下湿度的变化而自动张开闭合,快速调节湿度从而提高穿着者的舒适性。Objective In order for fabrics to automatically adjust the moisture loss according to the change of human body humidity,the microstructure of pine cone leaves,which open and close following humidity change,was studied and simulated.Polyurethane coating was used on polyester-ammonia knitted fabric to form the active layer and the driven layer with big difference in moisture absorption and elongation,so that the pine cone-like functional fabric responding to moisture was developed.Its pine cone-like leaves can automatically open and close according to the change of the wearer′s body humidity,and the humidity can be quickly adjusted to improve the comfort of the wearer.Method According to the response mechanism of pine-ball-like fabric to humidity,a self-made testing device for fabric moisture conductivity was designed,including water vapor generation,fabric moisture exchange and moisture conductivity detection.The relationship between the leaf aspect ratio(the ratio of longitudinal dimension to transverse dimension of leaf opening),leaf direction(the angle between leaf opening direction and cloth warp direction of driven layer),coating attach rate(the ratio of coating weight to cloth weight of driven layer)and moisture conductivity of leaf opening time,opening angle,opening speed and effective opening rate of pine-like fabric was studied.Results It was found that as the leaf aspect ratio decreased(Fig.7-9),the opening time of the leaves gradually increased,and other moisture conductivity indicators of the leaves,namely,full opening angle,opening speed and effective opening rate,increased at first and then decreased.The change of leaf aspect ratio had the greatest influence on the effective opening rate of pine cone-like leaves,fluctuating in the range of 73%-92%.When the leaf aspect ratio was 65%,all the properties were the best.With the increase of the blade direction(Fig.10-12),the moisture conductivity indicators of the pine-ball-like fabric,including opening time,opening angle,opening speed and effective open

关 键 词：仿松球面料 功能面料 自动调湿 面料结构 聚氨酯涂层 调湿性能 

分 类 号：TS941.1[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]