新型乳化体系及其在化妆品中的应用(I)——液晶乳化体系  

New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics(I)Liquid crystal emulsion system

作　　者：周康夫 晏佳怡 尚亚卓[3] Kangfu Zhou;Jiayi Yan;Yazhuo Shang(Yunnan Botanee Bio-technology Group Co.,Ltd.,Kunming,Yunnan 650106,China;Yunnan Yunke Characteristic Plant Extraction Laboratory Co.,Ltd.,Kunming,Yunnan 650106,China;Laboratory of Cosmetics,School of Chemistry&Molecular Engineering,East China University of Science and Technology,Shanghai 200237,China)

机构地区：[1]云南贝泰妮生物科技集团有限公司,云南昆明650106 [2]云南云科特色植物提取实验室有限公司,云南昆明650106 [3]华东理工大学化学与分子工程学院化妆品研究室,上海200237

出　　处：《日用化学工业（中英文）》2023年第9期1008-1017,共10页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

基　　金：云南特色植物提取实验室自主研究项目:基于云南特色植物的防晒及屏障修护系列产品开发及产业化(2022YKZY003);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金(222201717003)。

摘　　要：液晶乳化体系是一种新型的乳化体系,体系中表面活性剂(乳化剂)分子在油、水界面定向排列,形成长程有序、短程无序的液晶结构(通常为层状液晶)。乳化剂形成的层状液晶与皮肤角质层结构相似,使其在化妆品、生物医学等领域有着广阔的应用前景。随着人们对液晶认知的不断深入,以及消费者对液晶乳化产品优势的逐步认可,液晶乳化体系在高端化妆品中正得到广泛的应用。本文首先介绍了液晶及液晶乳化体系,总结了影响液晶乳化体系中液晶形成的因素以及液晶乳化产品的性能,包括稳定性、锁水保湿性能、包裹、缓释及促渗透性能和肤感等。在此基础上,阐述了液晶乳化体系在化妆品领域的应用,并对近年开发的特殊液晶乳化体系——液晶包结晶乳化体系、多重液晶乳化体系进行了介绍。最后指出了现阶段液晶乳化体系在化妆品领域应用的局限性,并对亟待解决的问题提出了个人看法,旨在为液晶乳化体系的开发及有效应用提供参考。Liquid crystal emulsion system is a new type of emulsion system,in which the surfactant(emulsifier)molecules locate at the oil/water interface and form a long-range ordered and short-range disordered liquid crystal structure(usually lamellar liquid crystal).The lamellar liquid crystals formed by emulsifier are similar to the skin stratum corneum lipid structure,which enable it a broad application prospect in the field of cosmetics,biomedicine,etc.With the further understanding of the liquid crystal and the gradual recognition of the advantages of liquid crystal emulsion products,the liquid crystal emulsion system has been used in high-end cosmetics widely in the past few years.In this paper,the liquid crystal and the liquid crystal emulsion system are introduced firstly and then the factors of affecting the formation of liquid crystal in emulsions are summarized.The properties of liquid crystal emulsion systems including the stability,water locking property,sustained-release property,penetration enhancing property as well as the skin sense are also provided.On this basis,the application of liquid crystal emulsion system in the cosmetic field is expounded.Furthermore,the novel liquid crystal emulsion system developed in recent years,including crystal encapsulated in liquid crystal emulsion and multiple liquid crystal emulsion are introduced.Finally,the limitations of the application of liquid crystal emulsion system in the field of cosmetics are put forward and personal views on the problems to be solved are proposed,which may provide necessary reference for the development and effective application of liquid crystal emulsion system.

关 键 词：液晶乳化体系 化妆品 产品性能 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]