高效液相色谱-荧光检测法同时测定美白类化妆品中的α-熊果苷、β-熊果苷、脱氧熊果苷、氢醌和苯酚  

Simultaneous determination of α-arbutin,β-arbutin,deoxyarbutin,hydroquinone and phenol in whitening cosmetics by HPLC-FLD

作　　者：乔亚森 袁莹莹 董亚蕾[1] 黄传峰[1] 王海燕[1] QIAO Yasen;YUAN Yingying;DONG Yalei;HUANG Chuanfeng;WANG Haiyan(NMPA Key Laboratory for Research and Evaluation of Cosmetics,National Institutes for Food and Drug Control,Beijing 100050,China)

机构地区：[1]国家药品监督管理局化妆品研究与评价重点实验室,中国食品药品检定研究院,北京100050

出　　处：《分析试验室》2023年第8期1056-1060,共5页Chinese Journal of Analysis Laboratory

基　　金：“十四五”国家重点研发计划(2022YFF0711100,2022YFF0711103)资助。

摘　　要：建立了高效液相色谱-荧光检测法(HPLC-FLD)同时测定美白类化妆品中α-熊果苷、 β-熊果苷、脱氧熊果苷、氢醌和苯酚等5种准用和禁用美白成分。以膏霜、乳液、面膜、啫喱和液体水基等样品为化妆品代表性基质考察了样品前处理条件。采用CAPCELL PAK ADME型色谱柱分离,荧光检测器检测。结果表明,α-熊果苷、 β-熊果苷在0.5~50 mg/L范围内线性关系良好,脱氧熊果苷、氢醌、苯酚的线性范围为0.1~10 mg/L。5种化合物在化妆品中低、中、高3个浓度水平的加标回收率范围为80.1%~117.3%,相对标准偏差(RSD)为0.40%~8.2%, α-熊果苷和β-熊果苷的方法检出限为2μg/g,脱氧熊果苷、氢醌和苯酚的方法检出限为0.2μg/g。A method was developed for the simultaneous determination of α-arbutin,β-arbutin,deoxyarbutin,hydroquinone and phenol in whitening cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography-fluorescence detection(HPLC-FLD).Cream,lotion,facial mask,gel and liquid water-based samples were used as representative cosmetics substrates for the investigation of sample pretreatment conditions.A CAPCELL PAK ADME column was employed to separate,and the fluorescence detector was used for detecting at corresponding excitation and emission wavelengths.The results showed that the linear ranges were O.5-50 mg/L forα-arbutin andβ-arbutin,and 0.1-10 mg/L for deoxyarbutin,hydroquinone and phenol.The spiked recoveries for 5 compounds at low,medium and high concentrations in cosmetics ranged from 80.1%to 117.3%with relative standard deviations of 0.40%to 8.2%.The detection limits of α-arbutin and β-arbutin were 2μg/g,while 0.2μg/g for deoxyarbutin,hydroquinone and isotretinoin.

关 键 词：高效液相色谱-荧光检测法 熊果苷 脱氧熊果苷 氢醌 苯酚 化妆品 

分 类 号：TQ658.5[化学工程—精细化工]