主次有别:戏曲服饰“六有别”穿戴规制的新成分迭代  

Distinctions Between Primary and Secondary Roles:Iteration of New Elements in the Costumes Regulations of the“Six Distinctions”in Traditional Chinese Opera Clothing

作　　者：孙鱼洋 潘健华[2] SUN Yu-yang;PAN Jian-hua(Performing Arts Department,Shanghai Theatre Academy,Shanghai 200040;Stage Design Department,Shanghai Theatre Academy,Shanghai 200040)

机构地区：[1]上海戏剧学院表演系,上海200040 [2]上海戏剧学院舞台美术系,上海200040

出　　处：《艺术百家》2023年第4期115-121,共7页Hundred Schools In Arts

基　　金：2021年度国家社科基金艺术学重大项目“中国戏曲服饰研究”(项目编号:21ZD14)阶段性成果之一。

摘　　要：提出主次有别是戏曲服饰穿戴规制随戏而变、因戏而生的时代所需,是对“六有别”穿戴规制的补充与更新。主次有别涉及戏曲服饰对整台戏人物的座次安排,主要人物中的一号人物是装扮的重中之重,只有让一号人物鲜明出彩,戏才能被牵引起来,各色人物形成结构和构成冲突,以焦点人物带动陪衬人物,让“别”生层次,以“别”明分寸。主次有别是戏曲服饰穿戴规制在新时代的发展结果,旨在使戏曲角色形象鲜活而富有层次。The proposal of distinctions between primary and secondary roles is a necessary supplement and update to the"six distinctions"of costumes regulations in traditional Chinese opera,which change with and arise from the play.The distinction between primary and secondary roles involve the arrangement of characters in the costumes of the opera.The first character among the main characters is the most important in dressing up,and the first character need to be distinct and outstanding in order for the play to be pulled forward.The first character Form a structure and conflict with other supporting characters,use the focus character to drive the supporting characters,and make"Bie"create hierarchy and clarify the sense of propriety with"Bie".The distinctions between primary and secondary roles are the development of clothing regulations in traditional Chinese opera in the new era,with the aim of making the image of traditional Chinese opera characters lively and rich in hierarchy.

关 键 词：主次有别 戏曲服饰 穿戴规制 迭代 

分 类 号：J82[艺术—戏剧戏曲]