两亲磺化杯芳烃对护肤成分的增溶、增稳和促进渗透作用  

Enhancement of Solubility,Stability and Permeation of Skin-care Ingredients by Amphiphilic Sulfonated Calix[8]arene

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作  者:于红梅 李诗慧[3] 田汉文 蔺一琳 张树昕 耿文超 李华斌 王宏磊 刘娟 郭东升[3] YU Hongmei;LI Shihui;TIAN Hanwen;LIN Yilin;ZHANG Shuxin;GENG Wenchao;LI Huabin;WANG Honglei;LIU Juan;GUO Dongsheng(School of Materials Science and Engineering,University of Science and Technology Beijing,Beijing 100083,China;China Cosmetics Tech Center,Chinese Academy of Inspection and Quarantine Cosmetics Tech Center,Beijing 100176,China;College of Chemistry,Nankai University,Key Laboratory of Functional Polymer Materials Ministry of Education,State Key Laboratory of Elemento-Organic Chemistry,Tianjin 300071,China;Suzhou Junde Biotechnology Co.,Ltd,Suzhou 215000,China)

机构地区:[1]北京科技大学材料科学与工程学院,北京100083 [2]中国检验检疫科学研究院化妆品技术中心,北京100176 [3]南开大学化学学院,功能高分子材料教育部重点实验室,元素有机化学国家重点实验室,天津300071 [4]苏州隽德生物科技有限公司,苏州215000

出  处:《高等学校化学学报》2023年第10期114-119,共6页Chemical Journal of Chinese Universities

摘  要:合成了下缘十二烷基修饰的磺化杯[8]芳烃(SC8A-12C),用于提高维生素A(Va)在水相中的溶解性和稳定性,并促进Va的经皮渗透.脂溶性Va在水中几乎不溶, SC8A-12C能将Va的溶解度提高至1.1 mg/mL,将Va在水溶液中的半衰期从5 h延长到35 h.体外透皮测试表明, SC8A-12C提高Va的透皮量达16.9倍. SC8A-12C还能增溶苯乙基间苯二酚、水杨酸、槲皮素及壬二酸等多种护肤成分,并将水杨酸的透皮量提高3.8倍.SC8A-12C从增溶、增稳和透皮性3个方面提升了Va的功效,有望开发出无油配方的纯水剂Va类护肤品.鉴于SC8A-12C对多种护肤成分的增溶作用,有望助力于多功效护肤品的发展.The sulfonated calix[8]arene modified with dodecyl at the lower-rim(SC8A-12C)was synthesized to improve the solubility and stability of vitamin A(Va)in aqueous solution,and promote the percutaneous permeability of Va.Lipophilic Va is almost insoluble in water,SC8A-12C could improve solubility of Va to 1.1 mg/mL and prolong the half-life of Va in aqueous solution from 5 h to 35 h.In vitro transdermal test showed that SC8A-12C increased the transdermal amount of Va by 16.9 times.SC8A-12C also increased the solubility of various skin-care ingredients,such as phenoethylresorcinol,salicylic acid,quercetin and azelaic acid,and increased the transdermal amount of salicylic acid by 3.8 times.SC8A-12C improved the efficacy of Va through improving solubility,stability and skin permeability,and was expected to develop oil-free skin-care products of Va.In view of the SC8A-12C improving solubility of a variety of skin-care ingredients,it is expected to contribute to the development of multi-functional skin-care products.

关 键 词:杯芳烃 增溶 增稳 透皮性 维生素A 

分 类 号:O622.6[理学—有机化学]

 

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