黔东南与湘西苗族辫带技艺及装饰艺术研究  

A study on the skills and decorative arts of Miao braided ribbons in Qiandongnan and Xiangxi

作　　者：张粤湘 夏帆[1] ZHANG Yuexiang;XIA Fan(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第10期105-114,共10页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金重点项目(19AMZ009)。

摘　　要：辫带是以丝线编织而成的带子,在黔东南与湘西苗族服饰中广泛使用。文章以黔东南与湘西苗族的辫带为研究对象,运用文献研究法、实物分析法和比较研究法梳理两地辫带的源流,对辫带技艺及其在服装上的装饰手法以图文并茂的形式进行比较分析,借由辫带装饰技艺表象深入分析其所呈现的装饰艺术及审美特征。研究表明,两地辫带使用的工具和材料是相同的,但因两地审美喜好不同,在技艺与装饰手法上形成了不同编织技法和应用形式,辫带本体及其在服装上的应用呈现较强的装饰艺术表现力和丰富多彩的审美情趣,同时也展现苗家妇女的审美期待、装饰需求。The braided ribbon,a ribbon woven with silk thread,is widely used in Miao costumes in Qiandongnan and Xiangxi.Due to its special skills and decorative functions,it has become one of the important decorations in Miao costumes.Therefore,the study of the braided ribbon of the Miao nationality in Qiandongnan and Xiangxi was carried out to determine the characteristics of the braided ribbon and its application in clothing,so as to lay a good foundation for further inheritance and innovation.We took the braided ribbons of Miao nationality in Qiandongnan and Xiangxi as the research object,used the literature research method,the object analysis method and the comparative research method to sort out the origin of the braided ribbons in the two places,made a comparative analysis of the braided ribbon skill and its decorative techniques on clothing in the form of pictures and texts,and analyzed the decorative art and aesthetic characteristics of the braided ribbon decoration techniques.The research shows that the tools and materials used in braided ribbons of the two places are the same,and there are differences in skills and patterns between the two places due to the different influences of nature worship and reproductive worship.Because Qiandongnan pays attention to the beauty of fullness and advocates the complicated aesthetic consciousness,while Xiangxi pays attention to the peaceful beauty of symmetry and balance,the two places have formed different weaving techniques and application forms in skills and decorative techniques.Through the characterization of in-depth analysis of the decorative art performance of the braided ribbon body and the braided ribbon on clothing,it can be seen that the body contains natural beauty and formal beauty,while the pattern,color and texture presented on clothing have the beauty of modeling,contrast and harmony,and the texture beauty of the stereoscopic relief.The application of braided ribbons in Miao costumes can not only produce various forms of beauty and decorative effects,but also

关 键 词：苗族 辫带 编织技艺 装饰技艺 装饰艺术 审美特征 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] J523.4[艺术—艺术设计]