传统女性婚服“尚青”现象源流考  

The origin of the phenomenon of “advocating cyan” in traditional female wedding dress

作　　者：方凌云 梁惠娥[1,3] 邢乐 FANG Lingyun;LIANG Hui’e;XING Le(School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Jiangsu Research Center for Intangible Cultural Heritage,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;School of Media and Arts,Wuxi University,Wuxi 214063,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学设计学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学江苏省非物质文化遗产研究基地,江苏无锡214122 [3]无锡学院传媒与艺术学院,江苏无锡214063

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第10期139-147,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学一般项目(21BG142)。

摘　　要：近年来以宋朝为时代背景的古装剧涌现出大量着青绿色婚服的场景,与以往影视作品形成巨大差异,引发热议。本文以古籍典章和壁画图像为研究资料,通过文献分析、图文互证等方法,对女性婚服“尚青”现象的由来、发展及转变原因展开探讨。研究表明:一是女性“青”色婚服在文字上的明确记载可追溯至古籍典章《隋书》;二是唐宋时期女性婚服形成的“尚青”现象,是基于周汉时期青色婚俗氛围的铺垫,并根据唐代敦煌壁画《婚礼图》与宋代《皇后坐像图》的描绘得以证实;三是明代命妇冠服制度的颁布标志着女性婚服“尚青”现象开始转变,根本原因是受“五德终始”说的影响,推测为帝王彰显国运并逐步恢复汉礼的一种表现。In recent years,there have been a large number of scenes of turquoise wedding costumes in costume dramas set in the Song Dynasty,which have formed a great difference from previous film and television works and caused heated discussion.This paper takes ancient books and mural images as research data,and discusses the origin,development and reasons of the phenomenon of“advocating cyan”in female wedding dress through literature analysis and picture-and-text mutual certification.The research shows that the explicit record of female“cyan”wedding dress in the text can be traced back to the ancient classic Book of Sui.It is recorded in Book of Sui:Etiquette Annals(Volume 11)that“When the queen pays homage at the ancestral temple,she should be dressed in Guiyi,a gown which might be marriage clothes.It is also called Huiyi,in the color of Zao from top to down”.It is the first time that Huiyi was clearly marked as“marriage clothes”.The color of Zao is generally believed to be black,but from the record of the empress Huiyi of Sui Dynasty in Book of Sui:Etiquette Annals(Volume 12)and Comprehensive Statutes,we can see that“the color of Zao”here is synonymous with“dark cyan”.In the Tang and Song Dynasties,women wore wedding dress with a large area of cyan.By tracing the connection between cyan elements and female wedding dress,it is found that in the Zhou and Han Dynasties,the wedding dress components and the spring wedding season were integrated in the form of images.In the Tang and Song Dynasties,the appearance of cyan wedding dress was depicted in combination with handeddown portraits,which gradually proved that traditional women showed“advocating cyan”phenomenon in the choice and inheritance of wedding dress color.However,since the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty,the change of the crown and dress system for women with a title or a rank prompted the“replacement of cyan with red”of female wedding dress,and the symbolic reason might be that the fundamental thought behind the crown and dress s

关 键 词：青色 婚俗服饰 人生礼仪服饰 服色文化 色彩现象 五德终始说 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]