塑身连体衣纸样结构设计  

Pattern Structural Design of Fully Fashioned Shapewear

作　　者：杨瑞灵 伯雪 王淏鋆 王传春 Yang Ruiling;Bai Xue;Wang Haoyun;Wang Chuanchun(School of Fashion Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《针织工业》2023年第9期79-83,共5页Knitting Industries

基　　金：北京服装学院教改项目(KCSZZT-2201);服装工效与功能创新设计北京市重点实验室项目(KF2019-03);2021年大学生创新创业训练计划项目(NHFZ20210181/003)。

摘　　要：以女性三维人体测量数据为基础,结合女性体形特征进行塑身连体衣纸样结构设计。首先通过在人体上立裁的方法获取无松量纸样,然后结合面料弹性试验数据调整塑身连体衣纸样,并进行样衣试制,通过CLO 3D虚拟试穿进一步完善版型得出最终纸样,进一步通过真人试穿进行压力测试及主观评价。试验得出,该款塑身连体衣整体压力值偏小,具有一定的塑形效果,该纸样可作为中压或者重压塑身连体衣的基础纸样。该研究为塑身连体衣的纸样结构设计提供了理论依据。Based on the three-dimensional human body measurement data of women,combined with the characteristics of women’s body shape,this paper designs the pattern structure of body shaping jumpsuits.Firstly,a nonloose pattern is obtained by body cutting,and the fabric elasticity test data is used to adjust the shape of the jumpsuit pattern.Sample production is carried out,and the final pattern is further improved through CLO 3D virtual fitting.Furthermore,the pressure testing and subjective evaluation are conducted through real person fitting.The experiment shows that the overall pressure value of this body shaping jumpsuit is relatively low,which has a certain shaping effect.This pattern can be used as the basic pattern for medium pressure or heavy pressure body shaping jumpsuits.This study provides a theoretical basis for the pattern structure design of body shaping jumpsuits.

关 键 词：塑身连体衣 无松量纸样 结构设计 纸样设计 塑形 服装压力 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]